Official Desert Tech SRS, HTI, Covert, & MDR Thread



  • Awesome writeup! Just used this tonight. Now my trigger is phenomenal. As good or better than my timney.



  • Got a new 1.05" 26" 22 Creed barrel to burn up. :)

    QjJdzkx.jpg



  • @orkan

    New chassis to...or customers chassis...or your backup?



  • One of my backups. I have 4 SRS chassis. ;)

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    It's raining out. Times like this I really like my setup. Load, slide my chair over, shoot. :)

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  • @orkan

    What was the official word on barrel life of a 22 CM?



  • I'll let you know later this summer. ;)

    My other barrel shoots too good. One of the best barrels I've had in my life... so I couldn't stomach shooting it casually. I'm saving it for coyote smashing purposes only.

    This new one however, is going to get thrashed. ... and it looks like it's going to be close to as good a shooter if not as good.

    No load development... just threw 42gr of H4350 behind some 80 bergers.

    Rounds 5-10 drifted around a bit while I adjusted zero.
    OUy1e4oh.jpg

    Rounds 10-15 and 15-20. Bipod slipped a bit on the slick formica so I sent one out the top of that left group, but otherwise its shooting quite well for virgin brass on a brand new barrel.
    jEHp02Xh.jpg

    I never finalize my zero until I get at least 50rnds through a barrel, but when this thing settles in it will kill every black dot it's pointed at. The paper was all wet from being rained on, so it was tearing funny, but that group on the right is sub-1/4moa. For shooting off a bench, during a rainstorm... I'll take it. ;)



  • @orkan said:

    I'll let you know later this summer. ;)

    My other barrel shoots too good. One of the best barrels I've had in my life... so I couldn't stomach shooting it casually. I'm saving it for coyote smashing purposes only.

    This new one however, is going to get thrashed. ... and it looks like it's going to be close to as good a shooter if not as good.

    No load development... just threw 42gr of H4350 behind some 80 bergers.

    Rounds 5-10 drifted around a bit while I adjusted zero.
    OUy1e4oh.jpg

    Rounds 10-15 and 15-20. Bipod slipped a bit on the slick formica so I sent one out the top of that left group, but otherwise its shooting quite well for virgin brass on a brand new barrel.
    jEHp02Xh.jpg

    I never finalize my zero until I get at least 50rnds through a barrel, but when this thing settles in it will kill every black dot it's pointed at. The paper was all wet from being rained on, so it was tearing funny, but that group on the right is sub-1/4moa. For shooting off a bench, during a rainstorm... I'll take it. ;)

    I'm jealous of your setup. That's an awesome room.



  • I'm going to have a lot of fun with this 22CM barrel. :)

    80rnds on it now, and it is just hammering. Here's a couple 5 shot groups at 100yds. Mirage got me good on that first one. I made up for it with the next. On that one I was shooting for group size, precision rather than accuracy, so I just maintained POA after the first round just broke out the bottom.

    sFcRsl0h.jpg
    B5E7hbCh.jpg
    BtAUl6Ah.jpg



  • @orkan said:

    B5E7hbCh.jpg

    Oh sweet baby Jesus that's good.



  • My other 22CM can stack them in the .0's and .1's. That group is at least .250".

    I should really have a talk with @tscustoms about sending me this garbage.



  • @orkan said:

    My other 22CM can stack them in the .0's and .1's.

    I should really have a talk with @tscustoms about sending me this garbage.

    :joy:


  • administrators



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  • That is different. I like it!



  • @orkan Hi, just experienced a missfire on my DTS. inspection of the primer showed a light strike, previous two rounds also appeared to have been lighter strikes, but those rounds fired. Stripped the bolt and everything appears to be ok, nothing broken, no dirt or debris. Only anomally was that the endcap spring seat appears to be slightly rounded, such that the spring does not sit square in the seat so the cap can "rock" on the spring. When reassembling the unit and cocking / decocking the bolt, the mechanism appeared to "bind". Gave the bolt a tap on the bench and the binding stopped. Could not work out if the binding was the end cap in the Sleeve or the Striker in the Sleeve or Bolt body. Has anyone had any similar problems or ideas? Rgds Phil



  • @pjt Is this a new rifle? Seems to be not entirely uncommon on brand new "tight" rifles.

    The number one culprit of light strikes or failures to fire is the bolt handle not being all the way down. Any amount of bolt lift will rob inertia... and on this bullpup it can be quite easy to bump the handle for some folks.



  • @orkan Hi Orkan, no, this is an old lady, bought it second hand a while ago. Don't think the bolts is tight as if I am too enthusiastic when chambering a round the bolt sleeve travels too far forward and blocks the striker preventing full cocking of the Bolt, If this happens I just move the sleeve back with my finger. So no don't think the bolt is tight, but could be wrong, have personnally put about 140 rounds though it without any similar issues occuring. Will however have a play to see if I can replicate.



  • @pjt If the bolt sleeve is sliding too far forward, then the bolt sleeve stop screw in the top needs adjusted, or you need a new one if deformed.



  • Hi, checked the Bolt, if the "Bolt Sleeve Stop Screw" you mention is the "End Cap Detent" Then this is positively locating in the cut out channel in the Bolt Sleeve (L shape with deep base at the bottom of the L) If it is a different screw then need help. I will forward a video clip showing the problem if you want. rgds phil



  • @pjt said in Official Desert Tech SRS, HTI, Covert, & MDR Thread:

    I will forward a video clip showing the problem if you want.

    If you like. Doesn't sound like we're talking about the same things.



  • @orkan Hi Orkan, sorry if I've confused things. Just to clarify, I have had two "issues" with the Bolt.

    1. and what I started the thread off with, a misfire where a factory round failed to fire. Inspection of the previous two rounds fired indicated light strikes by the firing pin on the primer, although as mentioned they did fire. I stripped the bolt but everything appeared to be OK, All clean and firing pin intact. On reassembly the sleeve appeared to be binding on occasion, when bolt cocked/decocked manually. But now appears to be OK? please see attached some photo's of the Bolt!

    2. Just after I purchased the rifle when attempting to reload the rifle, the Bolt appeared to jam, whilst it would cycle fully backwards and forwards in the receiver I could not close the bolt to engage the locking lugs. This was an intermittent problem. after a bit of investigation I discovered that on cycling the bolt the sleeve would sometimes go all the way forward, as in the top photograph, so the bolt could not be cocked. I have developed a workaround by not being so vigorous when cycling the bolt and moving the sleeve back with my finger if the bolt is difficult to turn.

    0_1549905210789_2019-02-11 13.41.12.jpg 0_1549904789388_HgxSt98Q.jpeg

    is the sleeve stop screw, the button that is locating the sleeve or are we talking at cross purposes?
    I was going to include a video clip showing the bolt jamming when being cycled, but the clip takes a lot of memory.
    Ideas on either problem much appreciated. regards Phil



  • @pjt Pretty sure you've got the sliding bolt sleeve installed backwards. That notch in the sleeve, is suppose to be toward the front. It interfaces with a bolt sleeve stop screw in the top of the bolt raceway in the chassis.

    I can't be too certain, as that is a pretty old bolt. It's possible that notch was machined on the wrong side... lol



  • @orkan Hi Orkan, double checked the Bolt assembly as per the SRS Manual and the Armourer's Manual and it is assembled Ok, however there is a notch cut out at 180 deg from the small one shown, but on the front of the slide. However close look at tge Armourer's manual and it mentions the Slide stop screw in the top of the receiver. So just pulled out the DTS and sure enough close inspection reveals a hole in the top of the receiver in the location indicated in the manual. However it appears to be a red plastic - Its also flush with the receiver so is non functional at the moment!

    Just removed the side panels to get a closer look, and it is a plastic screw which is damaged at the end. The manual suggests it is a 4mm allen head, this is a slotted head so wonder if it is a home made replacement, particularly as there is no shoulder to fix the depth so it cannot be screwed in too far and foul the Bolt. Now need to see if I can get a replacement.

    Am I ok continuing to use this thread for further comm's? Not wanting to upset people by misusing protocol.
    rgds Phil



  • @pjt New stop screws are metal. I'm sure DT can get you sorted on getting a new replacement.



  • @orkan Cheers and thanks again for all your help, rgds Phil