Official Desert Tech SRS, HTI, Covert, & MDR Thread
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Post all your Desert Tech related experiences and questions here!
Here's a rifle sporting Winter Mirage camo we just got ready for a customer.
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There is a question about DT's that comes up semi-frequently regarding the trigger screws. Here's the low down...
The set screw in the front of the trigger is the creep adjustment, and it is M5-0.8 and is 10mm long. The set screw in the back of the trigger is pull weight, and it is M4-0.7 and is 8mm long.
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Just above, we mentioned what kind of screws the trigger on the DT took, but why stop there? Lets dive in a little more in depth! Obviously there have been a few different renditions of these rifles, and your trigger setup might not look exactly like the one we picture here. They will function round about the same however.
When you pop the skins off the SRS-A1 or SRS-A1 Covert, you'll see the trigger mechanism is pretty much the only thing hanging down off the chassis. We have the chassis flipped upside down here for ease of explaining what is going on. In the image below you will see we have the main components of the immediately visible trigger identified. As mentioned above, the set screw in the front of the trigger is the creep adjustment. It is M5-0.8, is 10mm long, and has a 2.5mm hex interface. Turning this screw clockwise (screwing it in) reduces creep. Turning it counter-clockwise increases creep. The Desert Tech triggers are single-stage, so this isn't a pre-travel adjustment, but only a creep adjustment. This means that if you have a lot of creep, the transfer bar is going to slide along the sear for some time before the trigger will break. We will talk more about this engagement below, as it directly relates to the safety selector.
The safety selector pictured below is U-shaped and can be removed by sliding it forward off the trigger housing. You'll notice a little ball detent in the front of the trigger housing. This is what provides the "click" when moving the safety from safe to fire and vice versa. If you reference the image above, you can see that the safety slides over the front of the trigger itself. As you press the trigger shoe rearward, the front of the trigger moves down (or in this image, up, due to the rifle being upside down) and the trigger comes in contact with the tang on the front of the safety. This engagement is very important. The rails of the safety ride in receiving rails on the trigger housing, which keeps the trigger from being able to push it down. This interface illuminates why some Desert Tech owners are unable to get all of the creep out of their trigger. If the creep screw is advanced too much, the front of the trigger will ride out of the trigger housing too far, causing you to be unable to put the rifle on safe.
Here is how to find the optimal creep adjustment is for your rifle. Ensure the rifle is empty and clear. Close the bolt on the empty chamber. Use a 2.5mm hex wrench and turn the creep screw clockwise until the rifle dry-fires. Then turn the screw counter-clockwise approximately 1/8 of a turn. That should set the sear/transfer bar engagement so that it will still catch the sear when you close the bolt. To ensure a good safe condition, open/close the bolt violently, and dry fire each time to ensure the striker is actually being captured by the sear. Be rough with it. The idea is that you want to have enough sear engagement so that you will always be able to cock the rifle. If the sear doesn't catch, the rifle will not fire, and you will need to loosen the creep adjustment screw a bit.
Once you have this set optimally, it will probably render the safety inoperable. Here is where things get a bit more advanced. In order for the safety to be able to slide over the front of the trigger, you will need to modify either the trigger, or the safety tang. Personally, I would rather modify the safety tang, as it is super easy to replace in the event that you make a mistake. You'll need to very lightly file away at the under-side of the safety tang to allow it to slide over the front of the trigger. This requires a lot of tiny strokes with a very fine file, and a lot of trial/error. Done properly, you will have the most outstanding trigger possible in your Desert Tech!
The next thing we will cover is the pull weight adjustment screw behind the trigger. It is a M4-0.7, is 8mm long, and uses a 2mm hex interface. In the image immediately below, you will see the mechanism at play here. The screw interfaces that barrel. If you turn the screw clockwise, it rotates the barrel clockwise which increases spring pressure, thus increasing pull weight. Turning the screw counter-clockwise reduces the spring pressure, reducing trigger pull weight. You can remove the screw entirely, and the mechanism will stay together. If you look at the bottom picture, you'll see a little window there with a pin protruding into it. That pin retains the adjustment weight between an acceptable range of pull weights to ensure reliable function of the rifle. If there is not enough tension here, the rifle will not cock correctly when the bolt is manipulated. I like to back this screw out until the pin makes contact with the front of that window, and then put just a tiny turn on the screw to take the pressure off the pin. For the more adventurous, you could tune this adjustment by disassembling the trigger and filing that window a bit. I see no legitimate need for that kind of adjustment however. These are not benchrest rifles. ;)
One last consideration is the trigger housing itself. The housing is screwed to the chassis by two socket head cap screws with a 3mm interface. There is a bit of play in that mounting, so if you have the trigger set lightly and highly customized, you may have a tough time getting that back if you remove these screws. They are typically in there VERY tight. Again, removing these can be done, but I'd reserve it for those feeling quite adventurous.
I hope that gives everyone a better understanding of how these triggers function, and if you have any questions just let me know. :)
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Used this tutorial last night. Trigger was great anyway, but damn it's perfect now! Thanks Greg!
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@pizfiz said:
Used this tutorial last night. Trigger was great anyway, but damn it's perfect now! Thanks Greg!
Happy to be of service! :+1:
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Gonna have to play with this. Haven't had the stocks off yet, but guess I will try it now.
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If you happen to swing through issue 23 of Recoil magazine... you might see an article on the new MDR. ;)
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I have shot and been around the DT for a few years now. Just yesterday my SRS A1 showed up. Looking forward to barreling up for 338 LM AI after Brandon at CGC paints up the chassis and scope for me.
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A couple unique specimens headed out to customers today!
Yes, it's threaded, with a stealth protector! ... not that anyone would be able to tell by looking. ;)
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Wow thats good machining work. Travis is that your handy work? It took a minute but i an barely see the joint in the close up pic.
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@norcal_in_az said:
Wow thats good machining work. Travis is that your handy work? It took a minute but i an barely see the joint in the close up pic.
Of course it's Travis @tscustoms that did it! TS Customs are the only barrels we sell. ;)
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That picture is definitely a testimony to Travis's abilities, it is virtually seamless.:+1:
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Fartin around today and made myself an extended mag release button
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So...I got behind my cz in a manners T4 today after shooting the DTA for a few days in a row. I love the manners T4. It just seems right for me...however I found myself wishing it felt and handled the same as my DTA. As much as I like the T4 I think the DTA has it beat.
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Not hard to like the DT... that's for sure. Superior ergonomics. :)
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Some rifles ready to go out. :)
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Looks like a DT beauty pageant...:smile:
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All sporting Tangent Theta's as well. ;)
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You know I'm drooling...:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:
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Hi there, may have been covered already but I'm trying to swap out the standard SRS handguard for a covert one, I cannot move the standard one even using the proper DT tool. Any pointers/ideas. Are they glued on and need heat to break the "seal"? Cheers
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If you have the newest handguard configuration without the key in the top, then you are using a "barrel nut" looking tool to reach down inside the handguard. Sometimes that nut is very tight, and is what draws the receiver and handguard together. The only real "tips" I have would be to use a nice vise and rigidly hold the receiver when trying to remove it. You can try to heat the parts, by putting them at the lowest temperature in an oven for a bit, and then try to pop it loose with the tool. If that doesn't work, you can try tossing them in the freezer for a bit and cooling them before trying the same.
Another method is to use vibration. An impact wrench would be one thing to try, as they can usually remove the most stubborn fasteners.
That's really the only tricks I know of.
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@orkan said:
If you have the newest handguard configuration without the key in the top, then you are using a "barrel nut" looking tool to reach down inside the handguard. Sometimes that nut is very tight, and is what draws the receiver and handguard together. The only real "tips" I have would be to use a nice vise and rigidly hold the receiver when trying to remove it. You can try to heat the parts, by putting them at the lowest temperature in an oven for a bit, and then try to pop it loose with the tool. If that doesn't work, you can try tossing them in the freezer for a bit and cooling them before trying the same.
Another method is to use vibration. An impact wrench would be one thing to try, as they can usually remove the most stubborn fasteners.
That's really the only tricks I know of.
Turns out the importer gave me the old style tool for the older quad rail handguard. I will have to try and track down the castle style nut to remove it.
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Boy, if I had a dollar for every instance some importer across the globe wasn't providing service commensurate with the price point on DT's... I'd have lots of extra dollars floating around. ;)
Keep me apprised of your situation, and if you can't get closure I'll run this up the flag pole with my contacts at DT and try to help you get taken care of.
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@orkan said:
Boy, if I had a dollar for every instance some importer across the globe wasn't providing service commensurate with the price point on DT's... I'd have lots of extra dollars floating around. ;)
Keep me apprised of your situation, and if you can't get closure I'll run this up the flag pole with my contacts at DT and try to help you get taken care of.
Hiya, I phoned the importer and told him what was needed, his advice to take it to a gunsmith and he will cover the cost, BUT if it's a specialised DT castle nut socket then I'm not sure the gunsmith will be able to sort. I took barrel off and looked down handguard, is it a 6 tooth 35mm castle nut style socket that's needed? Cheers. Great service trying to help me out when I'm not a customer of yours, it is appreciated.
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I do not have the specific dimensions of the nut... but yes, in order for a gunsmith to work it out for you, he will need to machine a very specific tool which attaches to a socket wrench extension. Attempting some other method will almost definitely result in damage to the rifle and voided warranty no doubt.
Please send me a private chat with your complete name and shipping address, as well as phone number and email addy and I'll reach out to Desert Tech for you. Also, what is the name of your importer?
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I was sitting there last night and had a thought I wanted to throw around with people who knew more about it than I do.
I live in Tennessee and mainly hunt with deer with a muzzle loader because I can start hunting 2 weeks before all of the gun guys. That means that the vast majority of the deer I kill are with a muzzle loader.
CMMG played around with an AR upper that was a 50 cal muzzle loader. I think it is absolutely useless, but the principle has merit. They used 223 brass that were milled out to hold a 209 shotgun primer for ignition.
I love my desert tech and wouldn't mind hunting with it and the tangent theta as well. I can get 1:28 twist benchmark blanks which should work nicely for a muzzle loader. I would think that a 308 case could be milled out to hold a 209 primer for ignition. Is there any reason that someone couldn't make muzzle loader barrel for a desert tech?
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Anything can be done.
The question is always if there's enough money on the table to warrant the effort. I don't know anything about muzzle loaders.
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@dddoo7 something like this exists, I believe Remington uses a 38 special case on their new muzzle loader.
Look up the Remington ultimate muzzle loader.
Maybe if you got some small primer pocket lapua brass and trimed it down.
You could probably even set it up for smokeless powder as well.
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interesting. I knew about the older 700ml, but hadn't see the ultimate. That would make it easy to put it into a manners and slap a good trigger on it too. would make for a mean muzzle loader.
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@orkan What is the recommended torque (in foot pounds) for the SRS barrel nut when reinstalling the handguard?
Is locktite recommended?
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I don't think I'd use locktite. I'm not sure of the actual torque setting.
I've always used "good and tight" as the rule of thumb.
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@orkan Good & tight it is. It's easy enough to monitor and re-tighten if needed.
For anyone else who might need to remove their hand guard in the future, this was the process I used based on the recommendations of others on this forum.
With the hand guard oriented vertically, I applied Kroil through the hand guard vents where the barrel nut meets the hand guard threads. I repeated this several times and allowed it to penetrate into the threads for 24 hours.
I then heated the hand guard around the barrel nut with an industrial heat gun, using a 1/2" breaker bar to apply clockwise torque, and reapplying the heat until the nut broke loose.
I didn't have access to an impact gun, but the above worked without too much effort.
I used brake cleaner to strip the Kroil before reassembly.
Where it came into contact, the brake cleaner did discolor the hand guard. Wiping it down with gun oil restored the color.
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Awesome writeup! Just used this tonight. Now my trigger is phenomenal. As good or better than my timney.
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Got a new 1.05" 26" 22 Creed barrel to burn up. :)
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New chassis to...or customers chassis...or your backup?
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One of my backups. I have 4 SRS chassis. ;)
It's raining out. Times like this I really like my setup. Load, slide my chair over, shoot. :)
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What was the official word on barrel life of a 22 CM?
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I'll let you know later this summer. ;)
My other barrel shoots too good. One of the best barrels I've had in my life... so I couldn't stomach shooting it casually. I'm saving it for coyote smashing purposes only.
This new one however, is going to get thrashed. ... and it looks like it's going to be close to as good a shooter if not as good.
No load development... just threw 42gr of H4350 behind some 80 bergers.
Rounds 5-10 drifted around a bit while I adjusted zero.
Rounds 10-15 and 15-20. Bipod slipped a bit on the slick formica so I sent one out the top of that left group, but otherwise its shooting quite well for virgin brass on a brand new barrel.
I never finalize my zero until I get at least 50rnds through a barrel, but when this thing settles in it will kill every black dot it's pointed at. The paper was all wet from being rained on, so it was tearing funny, but that group on the right is sub-1/4moa. For shooting off a bench, during a rainstorm... I'll take it. ;)
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@orkan said:
I'll let you know later this summer. ;)
My other barrel shoots too good. One of the best barrels I've had in my life... so I couldn't stomach shooting it casually. I'm saving it for coyote smashing purposes only.
This new one however, is going to get thrashed. ... and it looks like it's going to be close to as good a shooter if not as good.
No load development... just threw 42gr of H4350 behind some 80 bergers.
Rounds 5-10 drifted around a bit while I adjusted zero.
Rounds 10-15 and 15-20. Bipod slipped a bit on the slick formica so I sent one out the top of that left group, but otherwise its shooting quite well for virgin brass on a brand new barrel.
I never finalize my zero until I get at least 50rnds through a barrel, but when this thing settles in it will kill every black dot it's pointed at. The paper was all wet from being rained on, so it was tearing funny, but that group on the right is sub-1/4moa. For shooting off a bench, during a rainstorm... I'll take it. ;)
I'm jealous of your setup. That's an awesome room.
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I'm going to have a lot of fun with this 22CM barrel. :)
80rnds on it now, and it is just hammering. Here's a couple 5 shot groups at 100yds. Mirage got me good on that first one. I made up for it with the next. On that one I was shooting for group size, precision rather than accuracy, so I just maintained POA after the first round just broke out the bottom.
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My other 22CM can stack them in the .0's and .1's. That group is at least .250".
I should really have a talk with @tscustoms about sending me this garbage.
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@orkan said:
My other 22CM can stack them in the .0's and .1's.
I should really have a talk with @tscustoms about sending me this garbage.
:joy:
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That is different. I like it!
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@orkan Hi, just experienced a missfire on my DTS. inspection of the primer showed a light strike, previous two rounds also appeared to have been lighter strikes, but those rounds fired. Stripped the bolt and everything appears to be ok, nothing broken, no dirt or debris. Only anomally was that the endcap spring seat appears to be slightly rounded, such that the spring does not sit square in the seat so the cap can "rock" on the spring. When reassembling the unit and cocking / decocking the bolt, the mechanism appeared to "bind". Gave the bolt a tap on the bench and the binding stopped. Could not work out if the binding was the end cap in the Sleeve or the Striker in the Sleeve or Bolt body. Has anyone had any similar problems or ideas? Rgds Phil
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@pjt Is this a new rifle? Seems to be not entirely uncommon on brand new "tight" rifles.
The number one culprit of light strikes or failures to fire is the bolt handle not being all the way down. Any amount of bolt lift will rob inertia... and on this bullpup it can be quite easy to bump the handle for some folks.
