Who all owns an AR



  • I've had one, but I never shot it so I sold it to fund other things.

    It was a DPMS Oracle I put a few things on.

    I guess I'm just not a fan of semi autos in general (purely in me owning one, I am completely for having the right to own them) to me there's just so much more to clean and lube and maintain.

    I've thrown around getting another one, especially before the election, but I just don't think I'd use it, I'm not into Carbines it would have to be one geared to precision shooting, and to me in that department I'd rather have a bolt action.



  • I've got 5 or 10 of em around all the time.



  • I don't AR's much, but I can't say I don't have one. I think it has been over a year since I shot my AR's.



  • I have a couple, I shoot them to keep the round count down on the bolt guns.
    I like to shoot clays on the 200 yard berm at our range while the bolties barrels cool. :smile:

    99% of the Lawyers make the rest look bad.

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  • I have 2, a RRA SBR with can and a build I just finished. RRA lower with geissele trigger, and a white oak armament upper 20 inch 1-7 twist to shoot 77gr. Do not shoot them very often but I figured better add one before killery.



  • I figured most did, I should probably build one, or buy a lower at the very least.

    Problem is I start pricing things out and it's costs as much as a decent bolt gun.



  • What should a person look for in a lower.

    I feel like it doesn't matter a whole lot here.



  • If I were you I would just buy a quality lower for now and then build it later.

    I am partial to seekins billet lowers, but there are many companies making quality lowers now. Noveske and BCM would be at the top of the list of ones I would choose as well.

    You could also consider an 80% lower.

    If I had it to do over again and had the money out of my AR's, I would buy and MDT. It is short package with a barrel long enough to preform well and no tax stamp.



  • You can build one on the cheap if all you want is a short range blaster. Get one with irons and throw a red dot on it.

    99% of the Lawyers make the rest look bad.

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  • You can get lucky when building, and end up with something nice. Though it's more rare than the internet would have you believe. Enough round count, and you'll start seeing problems.

    A matched billet upper/lower and BCG from a reputable manufacturer will stave off most of those kinds of problems. All of that from the SAME manufacturer. Then all of the tolerances should be correct, and you should not end up with undue wear anywhere important.

    Mismatched upper/lower... and you can have serious problems. Mismatched bolt/upper... and you can have serious problems. Mismatched all 3, is a clusterfuck waiting to happen.



  • MDT would be nice, for a carbine blaster type, I don't know how well it would do prone, but I guess I'm speaking out if my ass here.

    I just didn't shoot my carbine much when I had it.

    I think I would enjoy a rifle length gas system, and 18"-20" barrel set up with a low power like 2-10 or 3-15 scope.



  • Like with anything else... the right choices depend entirely on what you want to do with it.



  • I've got a couple in various flavors sitting around. And a couple thousand rounds of 5.56 and 300 blackout. I think they fall into the category of "guns you have to own as a gun owner."

    They get expensive to shoot, and I don't own a progressive press, so I keep the round count down to 1-200 every couple months.

    I don't bother to keep them bolt gun clean, I don't think they need it. Mine generally get the can of clp and a quick pass or two with the brush and patch.

    I'd recommend building it yourself. It's not complicated at all, with the right tools its like legos. I just cranked out a couple 80% lowers myself.
    Contrary to what others have said here I just buy a "quality" part from a well known manufacturer. I don't necessarily bother with matching uppers or lowers or billet parts. The AR15 enjoys universality (for the most part) across its platform, and I haven't experienced any issues using well made parts.

    RLTW
    (This space for rent)

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  • @orkan said:

    You can get lucky when building, and end up with something nice. Though it's more rare than the internet would have you believe. Enough round count, and you'll start seeing problems.

    A matched billet upper/lower and BCG from a reputable manufacturer will stave off most of those kinds of problems. All of that from the SAME manufacturer. Then all of the tolerances should be correct, and you should not end up with undue wear anywhere important.

    Mismatched upper/lower... and you can have serious problems. Mismatched bolt/upper... and you can have serious problems. Mismatched all 3, is a clusterfuck waiting to happen.

    See I've never heard this, I assumed if you got high quality things they would work out.

    I've heard of matched lower and uppers, and matched BCGs and barrels, but not lower, uppers, and BCGs.

    I would assume you could sent your BCG of and match it to a barrel?



  • I think what @orkan is talking about is compatible upper/ barrel extension and a properly headspaced barrel/bolt.

    Barrel extensions and uppers come as either rifle/m16 or M4/carbine. The distinction between the two is the feedramps.
    hV0x1IW.jpg

    The bolt/barrel headspace is self explanatory, in most cases any in spec bolt will fit any properly assembled barrel, but it is good to check with a set of gauges.

    Some upper end barrels come with a bolt headspaced off that barrel.

    RLTW
    (This space for rent)

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  • The bolt to upper fitment is important also. If one company is running a proprietary gas key, and you put that in an incompatible upper... it will grind the shit out of the upper. All kinds of fitment issues can be found. However, if the BCG, upper, and lower are all from the same company, then they should have all their tolerances worked out and you shouldn't have that stuff going on. What's more... no one will be able to make excuses for it if you need warranty service.



  • You reload, go crazy. 6.5 Grendal at a minimum or a wildcat at maximum.



  • @norcal_in_az 6.5 Grendel would be inreresting.



  • This noveske matched upper and lower look nice.

    No idea on valuable price wise.

    http://www.noveske.com/products/gen-iii-matched-upper-lower-set



  • 458 SOCOM. Its a semi auto 45-70 with half the recoil. Shoot 200-600 grain bullets. Whats not to like?

    I also strongly advocate against piston driven and propriety AR15s. Theres nothing wrong with a standard DGI upper or bolt. Thats what made the AR so popular IMO.

    RLTW
    (This space for rent)

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  • @ragnarnar eh, nothing large caliber haha.

    @orkan so as I long as I stay with the same manufacturer for upper, lower, bcg. Got it.

    Will barrel manufacturers heads pace to a bcg if I send it off to them?

    I think buying a lower, upper, and bcg will be first then save for a scope. (The burris xtr ii 2-10 was top of my list but the milk reticles suck though if I went with 6.5 Grendel I would want something larger.



  • @ragnarnar said:

    I also strongly advocate against piston driven and propriety AR15s.

    You obviously don't shoot suppressed.



  • @rhyno said:

    This noveske matched upper and lower look nice.

    No idea on valuable price wise.

    http://www.noveske.com/products/gen-iii-matched-upper-lower-set

    Noveske does good work.

    The thing I want to point out is that other than looks and a cool name you don't really get anything with that Noveske set that you couldn't get with another brand at less than 1/3 the price.
    Nothing about that Noveske has anything that makes it more accurate than a standard millspec forged upper or lower.

    If thats what you want to do though, go for it. I have the Gen 2 set and its awesome.

    RLTW
    (This space for rent)

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  • @orkan said:

    You obviously don't shoot suppressed.

    Correct sir. Fucking California

    If you mean use piston for suppressors to avoid getting all that crap blown back into the receiver I didn't think it was that big of a deal, and over exaggerated when I heard others talking about it.
    I used to shoot suppressed in the military, mostly in CQB drills in the shoot house. 500-750 rounds at a time without cleaning. The damn can is too heavy to carry attached for extended hikes up and down the hills of Afghanistan.

    RLTW
    (This space for rent)

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  • I'I'm also really digging the seekins stuff. Especially the V3 uppers, and they take a barrel nut that doesn't require special tools (as I'll probably have to buy all that.)



  • If you go with seekins, buy an upper that matches the hand guard that you want to run. I have the mcsr and bar. The mcsr is my favorite but I would like to try the triangle one at some point. The barrels attach to the seekins with I think it is 1 1/8 titanium nut that is screwed on with a crow foot and a torque wrench.

    As far as bolts go, you can order the barrel with a matching bolt and put it in the bolt carrier group that came with your upper.



  • @rhyno Look at Aero Precision for a value set of receivers and bolt carrier.

    Between myself, my oldest son, my parents, and my brother, we have never had issues with their blemished stuff.



  • Ugh, this may come down to what is in stock.

    Guess a lot of people want to make one before the election.



  • @rhyno That and CA new laws going into effect.





  • I like and recommend aero as well. An awesome product for the price. I've never had issues with Aero.

    You can get a upper and lower set for like 125ish plus DROS if you can find them.

    RLTW
    (This space for rent)

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  • It's not necessarily about saving money, I went the cheap route the first time and didn't like what I ended up with.

    I looked at Aero and they're still in the running. Though I think I'll prefer one with M4 feed ramps.

    The one Norcal linked didn't have them but they have one in stock that does.



  • Is there any Difference in BCG coatings?

    Not gonna go to the range and rapid fire it, and don't really plan on shooting suppressed, though that might change.



  • None of my bcg's are coated, but I really don't shoot enough to know if there would be a difference.

    Nate on the other forums recommends standard bcg's. He does shoot AR's enough to know.



  • That's, what I thought.



  • I appreciate all the advice guys, I'm really leaning towards a seekins set with the V3 triangle thingy.

    I think having the wide flat bottom will really be advantageous.

    As long as the barrel and gas block fit, I think a White Oak 20" varmint, it's .936" barrel, but I don't know if it will fit, I think an adjustable gas block would be advantageous, but that will also make it a bit larger.

    I can't find a BCG from them so I guess that's a downside but i'll just look for one from a good manufacturer.



  • Seekins makes bcg's. They didn't when I built mine so I have bcm bcg's. The seekins adjustable blocks are small and will fit under the hand guard.

    I put one of these together with a white oak 20" spr barrel and it worked fine, but t was a .750 gas block. Problem with the varmint barrels is that they are not threaded...or at least were not when I was building them



  • Yea the white oak ones are not, don't know if I'll go that way or not yet.

    I think 20" barrel for sure, but that's all I know for that part.

    I can't find a Seekins BCG on their sight, but I've seen some on some sites.



  • I'm kinda liking the new spikes tactical brown recluse. It is a integrally suppressed 9mm. Looks like fun.

    http://www.silencershop.com/spike-s-tactical-brown-recluse.html



  • That would be pretty fun.

    I am thinking the 6.5Grendel would be fun to, it would be nice then I could use it for Deer hunting, and it would hit Coyote hard.

    It uses different magazines though.

    What is everyone's thoughts on the Grendel.



  • @rhyno said:

    That would be pretty fun.

    I am thinking the 6.5Grendel would be fun to, it would be nice then I could use it for Deer hunting, and it would hit Coyote hard.

    It uses different magazines though.

    What is everyone's thoughts on the Grendel.

    Different mags and different bolt too I believe.



  • My buddy built one and was running the 123 Amax. It was easily going to 800 yards.



  • @dddoo7 yea different bolt.



  • So this seems like a good deal.

    http://www.bauer-precision.com/seekins-precision-combo-sp223-billet-lower-with-logo-irmt-3-upper-sp3r-15-mlok/

    I'm going to call them and see if they answer the phone and if they're in stock.

    Just doing some quick research looks like M-lok is the way to go.



  • @rhyno my white oak 20" 1-7 varmit is threaded by them. I called and spoke with them and what I liked was there qualifying process of what do you want the rifle to accomplish. Then based on the information they gave a couple of options. Right now still in load development with 77gr Sierras. I am in the .3 to .4 range at 100 yards. Had a sub quarter but to much pressure. I am also trying some 69gr Sierras. Using varget powder American eagle brass and rem 71/2 primers.



  • Is there a handy check list, anywhere that shows all the small things a guy needs to put an AR together?



  • University of Youtube is what I used when I started building my own.
    You can find guys assembling all manner of ARs there in painful detail.
    Generally speaking a "lower parts kit" will have all the stuff you need for the lower, minus the buffer, tube and spring

    If you went with a proprietary one like that seekins you were looking at I'd buy the lower kit from them to avoid issues.

    RLTW
    (This space for rent)

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  • @rhyno I don't own any special tools for assembling AR's. All my mechanic tools work just fine. Roll Pin punches are about the only thing that I bought.

    As far as a parts list it also depends on what your putting together. But here's the quick run down.

    Lower (a lower parts kit will have all of this)
    Trigger Group, safety, take down and pivot pins, mag release, bolt catch, grip, buffer, buffer spring, buffer tube, stock.

    Upper
    BCG, barrel, gas tube, gas block, handguard, barrel nut, charging handle,
    If Needed - forward assist, dust cover, muzzle device



  • You will also want a pin for the gas block/gas tube connection and possibly a pin for the gas block/barrel connection. Seekins has set screws on their gas block and will not need the second pin.

    As far as tools go, I have assembled several with just basic tools. I don't have a roll pin punch, but it would be nice. Probably not necessary with the billet seekins as it is a screw and not a pin.

    I also recommend headspace gauges unless you get a matched bolt. If you want to borrow gauges let me know.

    The billet seekins also requires a 0.050" hex key.



  • Assembling the upper requires torquing the barrel nut. There are a number of different clam shell type "action" blocks that support the upper receiver for the process. These are to insure the upper doesn't get squashed when in a vice.

    There is also the internal tool, that locks into the barrel extension.
    I prefer this type.

    Maybe Travis can give his opinion on the best one to use.

    99% of the Lawyers make the rest look bad.

    1


  • I should say that this is probably a ways away from being assembled but I like to plan things out a bit.

    I think, unless someone gives a good reason not to, I'm going to go 6.5 Grendel, and probably a JP 22" barrel and bolt, then their low profile adjustable gas block. Which I might have to sand down a bit, to fit the Seekins handguard. It's a close fit from what I've found.

    That's the plan right now I guess.

    Roll pin punches and stuff I have, I'll need to get whatever to hold the upper when that time comes.


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