Field cleaning kit
-
So I'm getting close to participating in PRS style matches which are typically held out in the middle of no-where. I want to put together a cleaning kit for the away-from-home type scenarios. Curerntly I have a Tipton rod with the nylon brush and a jag. I've also got a bore guide. For solvents I use Hoppes No9 and for lube I have a can of Balistol and also use Slip2000 EWL. I don't use any copper solvents (do I need it?) and I obviously add a couple of patches.
What do you guys have in your kits?
-
Wipe-Out Patch-Out and their Accelerator. Switch out your EWL with EWG. The grease is desirable for bolt lubrication. Lose the hoppes, it's pointless. Bring some Kroil for just in case scenarios. Ditch the nylon brush and go to bronze.
Add a chamber brush and large patches in case someone kicks sand in your rifle and what not.
-
Thanks Orkan. I will look into it.
Ps, was it a stupid question...? :grinning:
Was expecting more replies. :flushed:
-
No such thing as a stupid question.
-
@sa-shooter said:
Thanks Orkan. I will look into it.
Ps, was it a stupid question...? :grinning:
Was expecting more replies. :flushed:No stupid questions at all! I don't have anything to add to what Orkan said, as it's exactly what my kit is composed of. :grinning:
-
I was going to reply as there are more tools that I carry, but nothing to add to a field cleaning kit which was the actual question. I have switched from tipton rods to dewey rods as they are nicer, but there is nothing wrong with the tipton rods either.
-
My range kit consists of an Otis Ripcord in the proper caliber, a nylon brush and a pack of the Bore Mops. Lube is a 2 oz. bottle of Kroil and for the outside wipe down Sentry Marine Tuf-Cloth.
All this fits into a gallon ziplock and with the air removed it is quite flat.I don't take a cleaning rod unless I am shooting ammo that is on or into the lands.
-
@dddoo7 said:
I have switched from tipton rods to dewey rods as they are nicer
We'll see what tune you're singing when that shitty coating gets a rod stuck in your 1500 dollar barrel.
Yeah, I didn't think it would happen to me either. Only idiots would do that. Right?
-
@orkan said:
@dddoo7 said:
I have switched from tipton rods to dewey rods as they are nicer
We'll see what tune you're singing when that shitty coating gets a rod stuck in your 1500 dollar barrel.
Yeah, I didn't think it would happen to me either. Only idiots would do that. Right?
Yikes...really?
So I guess tipton might not be so bad.
-
I switched from dewey to tipton... and most recently tipton to pro-shot stainless.
Really digging the pro-shot rods.
-
Did solvent eat away at the Dewey rod coating?
I had nothing to add to the original topic.
-
-
Interesting.
I guess I have used Dewey rods up until now.
-
@rhyno said:
Interesting.
I guess I have used Dewey rods up until now.
... and never had a problem no doubt.
... and you wont.
... until you do. ;)
-
Do you use uncoated stainless then orkan? No adverse side effects to the stainless on stainless contact?
-
@orkan said:
@rhyno said:
Interesting.
I guess I have used Dewey rods up until now.
... and never had a problem no doubt.
... and you wont.
... until you do. ;)
Maybe you just clean to much. :no_mouth:
Joking aside.
I've never been a fan of the thought of a stainless steel rod down a barrel I guess.
-
I went the other way, from SS rods to the Tipton. I never did like the idea of that stainless in the bore.
-
I'd like both of you to explain why please.
-
Steel on steel.
The rod would have to flex, I think in order for it to happen.
Or it may do it across the crown (even though what the crown is may not effect the rifles accuracy) when the patch/brush or whatever goes through. I can see that rod dropping and hitting that last bit of rifling and you would have metal on metal.contact.
The possibility of having the rod hit the inside of my barrel.
-
@orkan said:
I'd like both of you to explain why please.
I have 2 stainless rods and used them for a number of years. It used to bother me when I would occasionally have to really put pressure on the rod, I feared bowing the rod and damaging the bore. I bought some coated stainless rods and then a few? years back switched to Tipton.
This past year I acquired 2 Otis ripcords; my first impression with the .308 was not so good, call me over cautious, but started using the .223 at the range.
Now I use them both.
I can carry everything in a gallon ziplock taking up very little space.
-
The .45 bore tips work in the .308 chamber and the .308 work in the .223 chamber.
-
It's epic when a thread explodes over night :smile:
Thanks everyone! I'll have to see what I can get locally. We don't get wipe out here and never heard of Kroil :unamused:. As for the rod discussion, the only decent rods we get here is Boretech(spelling?) and Tipton, I could not find Dewey. Anything else needs to be imported privately. I am not prepared to pay double the price of a Tipton for a Boretech rod and Tipton has everything I need and the advantage of not being metal.
@Orkan, why don't you like Hoppes? Is there a different solvent you would recomend? I honestly only use it to loosen up the carbon and because it's cheap.
-
@sa-shooter said:
@Orkan, why don't you like Hoppes?
In my experience Kroil is about 10 times better at removing stubborn carbon buildup than hoppes.
-
@dddoo7 said:
Do you use uncoated stainless then orkan? No adverse side effects to the stainless on stainless contact?
So...what is the verdict on this? I have heard many people say that stainless on stainless is horrible for barrels, but I have no evidence to this or against it from personal experience.
I
-
Neither do I, I guess, just the thought.
The lucks bore guides I use should minimize the risks.
-
I changed from stainless to the Tipton Carbon fiber rods to minimize the risk of damage also.
-
@dddoo7 said:
Do you use uncoated stainless then orkan? No adverse side effects to the stainless on stainless contact?
Sorry, I must have missed that post.
I switched to stainless un-coated rods about 4 months ago... maybe a bit more. Been using them exclusively and have seen no adverse affects at all. Only positive results to report.
They are stiffer than tipton carbon rods, so they flex less. The surface is harder than carbon, so I get less "crud" on the towel I clean the rod with between strokes.
I really love how there is no "connectors" on the end of the rod. Just stainless rod threaded. I'm taking that to the next level soon, and I'll be ordering Ivy rods with the jags built in for each rifle I own.
-
@orkan said:
Wipe-Out Patch-Out and their Accelerator. Switch out your EWL with EWG. The grease is desirable for bolt lubrication. Lose the hoppes, it's pointless. Bring some Kroil for just in case scenarios. Ditch the nylon brush and go to bronze.
Add a chamber brush and large patches in case someone kicks sand in your rifle and what not.
Alright, so after some looking around, I have some questions. We don't get Wipe out here, are there other alternatives? What's wrong with Hoppes?( I know I asked this earlier in the thread. Just curious if it's totally useless or just not preferable). I will be picking up EWG soon but I've never used anything like it. Which areas do I need to apply?
-
Hoppes doesn't remove copper very well at all. It does good on powder fouling, but that's about it.
-
Just based on your location I would look at the KG cleaners line. I'm pretty sure it was either developed in SA or Certified for use by the military there.
I don't believe they have a combination (copper/carbon) solvent, which would mean you need to carry more around.
I use their stuff and it seems plenty effective. KG 1 for carbon, KG 12 for copper.
I've also used KG 2 for heavy copper fouling, but it contains some abrasive component. I'm not sure I'd use it in a custom barrel, but for some of my factory Remington's it's practically essential.
-
@ragnarnar said:
Just based on your location I would look at the KG cleaners line. I'm pretty sure it was either developed in SA or Certified for use by the military there.
I don't believe they have a combination (copper/carbon) solvent, which would mean you need to carry more around.
I use their stuff and it seems plenty effective. KG 1 for carbon, KG 12 for copper.
I've also used KG 2 for heavy copper fouling, but it contains some abrasive component. I'm not sure I'd use it in a custom barrel, but for some of my factory Remington's it's practically essential.
Thanks. Never heard of it but will look into it.
