Removing ejector without a tool.



  • Usually I use an ejector tool for removing the ejector. They are very handy. Like this:

    rejectorretainpinremoval.jpg

    Well my damn tool wouldn't fit over one of my surgeon 591 bolts, so I had to improvise.

    1. Drift the pin a bit, and the punch will hold the ejector.
      S4H7lJJl.jpg

    2. Use a case and hook it under the extractor and use it as a lever to take pressure off the punch.
      1hSBp1Bl.jpg

    3. Carefully release the pressure with the casing. Do it wrong, and you'll be looking for an ejector and spring. ;)
      DRAI3VAl.jpg



  • Why would one of us common folk need or want to remove the ejector?

    Throw a towel over your hand or put a plastic bag over your vise and hand when you remove the case that way if the springs shoots off it doesn't go far.



  • Good question! I've never removed the ejector. I've removed the firing pun a couple times to inspect and re lube but that's all.



  • @norcal_in_az said:

    Why would one of us common folk need or want to remove the ejector?

    Throw a towel over your hand or put a plastic bag over your vise and hand when you remove the case that way if the springs shoots off it doesn't go far.

    To thoroughly clean/service the bolt and it is a good way to establish COAL and case headspace.
    I can attest to the fact, the towel method works! :smile:

    99% of the Lawyers make the rest look bad.

    1


  • Mamalukino hit it. Many reasons to remove an ejector. Last night I was trimming some coils off the ejector spring so my case mouths wouldn't get dented up so bad upon ejection.



  • @orkan said:

    Mamalukino hit it. Many reasons to remove an ejector. Last night I was trimming some coils off the ejector spring so my case mouths wouldn't get dented up so bad upon ejection.

    Now thats a good idea. Mine are always getting dented if I don't carefully cycle the bolt and catch the brass.



  • Do Mauser/Winchester/FN actions dent brass as much?



  • It really depends upon the cartridge, and the specific action in question. Many cases tend to swing back and hit the rear of the action just behind the ejection port. They often hit right on the case mouth, with a lot of short cartridges. This dents the case mouth something fierce.



  • While shooting this weekend I did a few quick cycles of the bolt and remembered how much I hate flinging brass 2-3 feet away. So I thought of this thread...could cutting 1-2 coils off the spring help me? If I screw it up, I'm sure another spring ins't hard to come by is it?



  • Rem700 parts are as easy to find as water. They are everywhere. ... and yes, weakening that spring will for sure help with the brass flinging issue. First, make sure its the spring and not you. If you pull the bolt back slow, and it still flings them far away... then it's for sure the spring.



  • Can't say for a bolt action, but clipping a coil or slightly trimming the ejector by a tiny bit is done by the Service Rifle guys to put the brass at 1 or 2 O'clock instead of on top of the competition to the right. Usrifleteam site has a few threads on ejector tuning.


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