The Loading Log



  • @dddoo7

    Oh man that's a lot of shiny brass! :hushed:



  • That's like brass heaven. :laughing:

    I was going to post a picture of my days work loading and prepping brass; however 3d beat me to it...
    Now I am suffering brassis envy and self esteem issues:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

    But seriously, triple d, that is awesome.:+1:



  • It is all in the equipment. That represents about 2 hrs of pulling the handle on the 1050 and about 2 hrs of rough trimming. They tumbled for about 3 hrs each. With the proper equipment you can really put some brass through. Thing is all of this processing just pays for more reloading tools...so I am really not making any money. Lol.



  • I'm starting to wonder if its worth me buying the equipment to process the 223 brass I have or just pay ddd to do it, lol.

    Question for y'all. I was killing time at Cabela's today and saw the Forster co-ax priming tool. Anyone ever used one? I know I'm not going to get CPS accuracy from it, but it looked interesting.



  • Man, it would take me a week and probably a mental breakdown to do half of that brass haha.



  • @norcal_in_az

    Yes I have one and don't care for it maybe used it twice. I use my bench RCBS instead.



  • @dddoo7

    Have you tried to annealing before the first sizing. I find it too be easier and produce more even neck tension.



  • @jibnast

    I anneal all of my own brass before sizing...problem is people that buy the brass want to see the blue color. If I anneal, size, and then tumble it takes all the color off and I have to anneal it again.

    If anyone of you all send me brass and request annealing first I can do that...but it will not have color on it and it has to be fairly clean to anneal before tumbling. Either that or it can be decapped, tumbled, and then annealed...it just adds an extra step.



  • After Tuesday's range excursion and the nice little group I was able to shoot with IMR 4895 , I loaded up 11 more, 5 with the 52 gn Nosler CC and 5 with some 52 gn Amax. Both same COAL. Also loaded 11 with IMR 4064, same COAL and same weight, 25.0 grains of powder. Why 11? well I had 2 of the Amax bullets with noticeably tighter/harder seating, 1 when loading the 4895 and the other with the 4064. I suspect the bullet and not the brass as this was 1x fired brass and mandrel neck sized and necks measured .0005 more than the rest after loading.
    ABS3v40h.jpg



  • 6000 pieces going out today. I'm caught up for now...but more is on the way here.

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  • Nice!



  • Knocking out some 300BLK

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  • Loaded 250rnds of 300blk, and just for the heck of it decided to check the zero on the Prometheus to see if it drifted.

    giggle

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  • tmEMWLv.jpg

    Not nearly as high speed, I'm working on forming some range pickup .223 Rem into some .300 Blk. Just for cheap AR fodder.

    I need to get a progressive for this type of work. I've got access to free, almost unlimited, mixed headstamp brass.

    I've got a stainless tumbler on the way, after I trim and ream all this brass hopefully I'll be able to clean it up for loading.



  • @ragnarnar said:

    tmEMWLv.jpg

    Not nearly as high speed, I'm working on forming some range pickup .223 Rem into some .300 Blk. Just for cheap AR fodder.

    I need to get a progressive for this type of work. I've got access to free, almost unlimited, mixed headstamp brass.

    I've got a stainless tumbler on the way, after I trim and ream all this brass hopefully I'll be able to clean it up for loading.

    I can trim them and run them through the press for $0.04 each (that is decapped, swaged, trimmed, and sized). Another $0.04 each if you want them tumbled and annealed. Unless you are planning on doing tens of 1,000's then it will be cheaper to have them processed than to buy the equipment.



  • @dddoo7 thats a compelling argument, and truthfully I had considered that. This is the one aspect of reloading I dislike.

    By my guesstimate I have 10K (and growing) pieces of mixed headstamp 223/556 needing conversion (three-five gallon homer buckets).

    I'm looking to get a progressive so I can shoot my ARs and pistols more economically and as a way to stick it to CA and their damn ammo background checks. I've found a local guy who will sell me a used XL650 with case feeder for $450.

    If i were to buy reformed brass from you rather than shipping mine in to be reformed what would it cost me? I don't want to consider the cost of shipping 3 five gallon buckets worth of brass, even in flat rate boxes.



  • Eight cents a piece to have someone else process them seems like money in the bank to me. Also remember that a LOT of people that shoot at square ranges use the cheapest ammo imaginable, and the brass has already been "re-manufactured" once. Some of that stuff is a virtually guaranteed to have a case head separation the next time it's fired.

    If it were me, I'd be buying from dddoo7! ;)



  • @ragnarnar said:

    @dddoo7 thats a compelling argument, and truthfully I had considered that. This is the one aspect of reloading I dislike.

    By my guesstimate I have 10K (and growing) pieces of mixed headstamp 223/556 needing conversion (three-five gallon homer buckets).

    I'm looking to get a progressive so I can shoot my ARs and pistols more economically and as a way to stick it to CA and their damn ammo background checks. I've found a local guy who will sell me a used XL650 with case feeder for $450.

    If i were to buy reformed brass from you rather than shipping mine in to be reformed what would it cost me? I don't want to consider the cost of shipping 3 five gallon buckets worth of brass, even in flat rate boxes.

    I am getting $0.12 each plus shipping for mixed HS and $0.15 each for LC head stamp brass.

    You better jump on that 650. The case feeder alone is $200+! I like the 1050 for sheer volume, but the 650 is much more economical for caliber conversions and it is also much quicker for the changeovers.

    I rarely ever load more than 200 rounds at a time for my handguns...so I went with two 550's. One is large primer and one is small so I don't have to do the primer conversion. That allows me to do caliber conversions in about 2 mins whereas the 1050 takes every bit of 20 minutes. The 650 conversion including primer conversion is probably about 10-15 minutes once you are used to it.



  • I decapped and tumbled 350 pieces of .223 yesterday. 200 LC and 150 FC XM193 once fired. I have 500 55g Soft Points I picked up just waiting to be shot.



  • So I did some digging around the internet for DIY case lube ideas. I found a recipe of 1 part Lee Case lube with 4 parts 91% ISO. I had the Lee lube, so a run to Wally World and I got a small spray bottle and the ISO. Another trip to the dollar store and I got two small baking sheets.

    Layed the brass on the sheets, and spray em down. Left em outside in the AZ heat and they were dry 10 minutes later. I shot a quick video of me running them through my small base die. This stuff works fucking great!



  • That is pretty sweet. I wish I had known about your formula and way of applying it.

    I always preferred the Lee resizing lube to any other I have used, including Imperial wax. I've resized thousands of 7.62 and 5.56 machine gun brass with Lee's lube. Spray on would have been nice.

    Can you let us know if you get any lube dents and how it cleans up?



  • @norcal_in_az said:

    So I did some digging around the internet for DIY case lube ideas. I found a recipe of 1 part Lee Case lube with 4 parts 91% ISO. I had the Lee lube, so a run to Wally World and I got a small spray bottle and the ISO. Another trip to the dollar store and I got two small baking sheets.

    Layed the brass on the sheets, and spray em down. Left em outside in the AZ heat and they were dry 10 minutes later. I shot a quick video of me running them through my small base die. This stuff works fucking great!

    I use liquid lanolin and alcohol for lube in my progressives. Imperial is just too slow. I put a few handfuls of cases in a gallon icecream container and squirt one good squirt of lube. Then I shake the whole thing and let it set for about 30 sec and it is ready to run.

    I still use imperial for precision because cleanup is easier...but it is not nearly as fast.



  • @mamalukino said:

    That is pretty sweet. I wish I had known about your formula and way of applying it.

    I always preferred the Lee resizing lube to any other I have used, including Imperial wax. I've resized thousands of 7.62 and 5.56 machine gun brass with Lee's lube. Spray on would have been nice.

    Can you let us know if you get any lube dents and how it cleans up?

    I saw no dents as I sized the brass last night, and I was checking for them. I just pulled them out of the walnut shells after being in there all night. Super shiney, polished, and no residue on them.

    @dddoo7 said:

    I use liquid lanolin and alcohol for lube in my progressives. Imperial is just too slow. I put a few handfuls of cases in a gallon icecream container and squirt one good squirt of lube. Then I shake the whole thing and let it set for about 30 sec and it is ready to run.

    I still use imperial for precision because cleanup is easier...but it is not nearly as fast.

    When I started looking I knew about the liquid lanolin, but couldn't find is locally. I had the Lee lube so it was worth a shot and I'm glad I tried it. Made sizing a large batch of brass much easier.

    I should try the Imperial for my .308 brass just because I don't want to have to tumble it twice.



  • @norcal_in_az Thanks norcal, got me motivated to try that lube and being I use the Lee's and I had some 91% Alky all I needed to do was scrounge up a spray bottle.
    I don't think my wife will miss one, if she does, I'll blame the dog.
    Anyway, works great. I started attacking the accumulating pile of AR brass.:smile:



  • Setting up to FL size some 223AI. Just needs a run through the annealer quick and my Friday night is planned!
    zYWMRT0.jpg



  • @brittel Are you going to explode some PDogs soon?



  • @mamalukino Going to send off my .223 bolt to get the firing pin bushed. Will probably have to when that returns!



  • @brittel Video some action if you can, it is almost as good as popping them myself. :smile:



  • My Friday night will be swaging LC brass, lol.



  • @norcal_in_az My hand and arm are sore from attacking the AR brass.
    Thankfully this brass was already swaged.
    What a time saver that spray is; I used to roll the brass 8-10 at a time between my hands to lube them. Put a small dent in the pile, but now not going to keep putting off resizing.



  • @mamalukino of course! here is something to hold you over in the meantime..



  • @brittel what bullet do you guys use?



  • @mamalukino Right now I'm shooting the 50gr vmax and getting right around 3125fps while fire forming. I'm not sure exactly what @orkan is using in his 17Rem.



  • @brittel did you send the bolt from your 6.5 to get bushed? Is it back yet?



  • @mamalukino said:

    @norcal_in_az My hand and arm are sore from attacking the AR brass.
    Thankfully this brass was already swaged.
    What a time saver that spray is; I used to roll the brass 8-10 at a time between my hands to lube them. Put a small dent in the pile, but now not going to keep putting off resizing.

    Glad to hear it worked out well for you as well. Lee Lube is cheaters than Lanolin, and easier to find lol.



  • @brittel said:

    @mamalukino I'm not sure exactly what @orkan is using in his 17Rem.

    25gr Vmax is what I was using in that vid.



  • Hey orkan, mind if I come over? :smiling_imp:

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  • @brittel Jealous:stuck_out_tongue:



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  • loaded up a few rounds for the 500 smith today. Ain't nothing like holding a revolver in one hand and lighting off 39.5gr of h110 behind a 350 gr xtp. That is a 223 round in front just for size comparison.

    I am planning on ordering some 440gr hard cast with gas check and a few 700 gr with gas check too. I think the 700's will be a handful...but might be interesting. It is supposed to still push the 700's at 1200 fps.

    E9095532-62A0-4326-A0C0-5511844E752F_zpskhzjyxha.jpg



  • Getting some ready for the next range day.....

    6epBSk1.jpg



  • I trimmed 200 pieces of LC 5.56 brass last night in front of the TV. Got another 140 pieces to do tonight. Then I'm finally ready to load them up.

    Picked up a couple pounds of BL-C(2) for these rounds. I wanted a easy metering powder for just blasting loads.

    How much do you guys cut your charges for LC brass? 10%?



  • I load all the .223/5.56 brass for my ARs the same regardless of headstamp.

    I believe the drop your load for military brass came from 30-06 and .308/7.62X51 loads as there was/is considerable difference in internal volumes with those 2 vs. commercial brass.

    For my bolt gun I only am running 1 headstamp and same lot brass.

    Accurate shooter has Sierra manual downloads specifically for ARs and bolt guns here:
    http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/223rem/



  • Reducing loads due to internal volume of the case is certainly a real thing. In 308 you need to shave of about 1gr to 1.5gr of powder to get back in the node when coming from winchester to lapua/LC or similarly thick brass.

    I've never "switched" brass when I had a load worked for .223... so I can't guide you there. Easiest way would be to do a water weight test between the different brass. See how much volume is reduced, assign a percentage value, and reduce your charge accordingly.

    Or you could just do a new OCW... as everything will be revealed there.



  • Well I'm not looking to do a OCW test. I'm loading up a bunch of rounds for both my AR and the one I'm building for my son. Just looking to do a 1 MOA load. I just don't want to load up a max charge round.

    Here's the bullets http://www.hornady.com/store/22-Cal-.224-55-gr-SP-with-cannelure/

    Hodgdon calls out a starting charge of 25.5g http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle



  • If you look at the accurate shooter link there is a capacity difference chart shown. The 2 Lake City years tested have a larger capacity than Winchester, which Hodgdon list as their test brass.

    I would load to the beginning of the case shoulder (body/shoulder) as long as that does not exceed maximum, or an arbitrary number like 26.0 grains.



  • @norcal_in_az said:

    Well I'm not looking to do a OCW test. I'm loading up a bunch of rounds for both my AR and the one I'm building for my son. Just looking to do a 1 MOA load. I just don't want to load up a max charge round.

    Here's the bullets http://www.hornady.com/store/22-Cal-.224-55-gr-SP-with-cannelure/

    Hodgdon calls out a starting charge of 25.5g http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle

    If that's the case, why not just load up a few at the charge weight you have and see if there's pressure? You can speculate all you want, but without shooting you won't know.



  • Once again I gave credence to my use of 2 scales, a digital and a beam.
    I set the beam off by a full grain, most likely as a result of poor eyesight. My first load was on the balance beam scale and a 2nd load dumped onto a digital. I dropped the load from the BB scale into a case and dumped the digital load to verify charge into the beam scale and the scale bottomed out alerting me to the under loaded 1st case.
    Doesn't happen often, but as I age I find I need to check things out with more diligence and have a procedure to nullify/catch errors.



  • Well I got 300 rounds of .223 AR food done today. The Chargemaster gave me a little scare. For some reason the feed tube or motor got jammed up and wouldn't turn with 50 rounds left to go. I called Greg, and decided to open it up. Checked all the plugs and got the feed tube unstuck. Turned it back on and it works.

    I was really happy with how accurate it was throwing before my mishap. Afterwards I didn't give it time to warm back up. Wasn't to worried about it, it's just blasting ammo after all. While I was waiting on the Chargemaster, I still feel it was faster than throwing a load, and trickling it up. I can see why you guys have two of them.

    Going to the range in the morning to try these loads out and a few changes on my 700.



  • Yeah, I wasn't looking forward to having to reimburse you for that thing. I was so happy when you called back and got it working. Friggin thing never gave me the slightest hiccup since I bought it... and then it freaks out as soon as you get it. I hate that!

    Just remember... put the thing on a power conditioner and battery backup! :)

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