Primal Finish

  • I have had a pretty good summer. No hurricane so far, missed the big flood by about thirty miles and still able to get out of bed every morning. Maybe not as fast as I used to but nonetheless I get up. Also, I made a new friend. At least I hope so, I still think I got the better end of our deal. You have to be a pretty tolerant person to put up with my long phone calls and marathon texting. I did a little project for DDD007 and in return he did something for me. I have played with stock refinishing and cold blue projects on old rifles I picked up here and there but nothing close to a cerakote finish like Daniel does. I chose this rifle because one, it looked terrible and two, I use it a lot and I enjoy shooting it. It may not be the most accurate in the world but it feeds, ejects and goes bang every time I pull the trigger unless the ammo is a dud which happens occasionally. Can't help that. The attention to detail he takes is something to see in his work. He sent me a few pictures and when I saw the pattern on one of the stocks I knew that was it. I was just going to go with a plain flat black for the metal pieces and he set me straight on that. Sure glad he did because I am terrible with colors and on a project like this the function of them. I plan on having the suppressor done and it will stay on this rifle as soon as I get a new one. I hate the wait. I'm really proud how this turned out. Many thanks Daniel.

  • Sweet looking cerakote job there!

  • I am glad you like it. I am also excited about the barrel caps you turned out for me. I will make a post on them in a week or two.

  • @dddoo7 When I went to the range after reattaching the scope zero shifted to the right about a foot. Of course the entire mounting system was broken down for the coating but one magazine got me back to where I needed to be at fifty yards. I guess I fired about seventy five rounds or so then I had a couple of misfires due to the bolt being a little sticky. I did lubricate it after I texted you it was just a little dry and when I went to the ranch Saturday it worked fine. I sent a couple of turtles to the promised land and like I told you I pestered a jack rabbit that was out about three hundred yards. At least that's the range the side focus was on to clear up the scope. I need to keep the range finder on my Polaris when we sit up on the tank berm. If I knew anything about calling coyotes that would be a heck of a spot to set up on. I hear them just east of me in the brush and I don't think it would take much to coax them out if they didn't sniff me. Might be interesting laying on the ground with the big red ants we have everywhere though. Need something with a little more muscle than a 22 though. I sent one into a spin this spring behind my house there but couldn't anchor it. Two hits with a 22 and it still limped off. I knocked the lower jaw off of one with a 300 Blackout sub and it still got away from me before I could finish it. Dang things are tough.

  • @bigfoot

    Glad it is shooting well for you now. I can see needing to re-zero after it was all broken down and put back together. That is just the only way to coat one properly.

    Like you say, coyotes are tough. I have tried to shoot them with 22’s a few times and even with fairly good hits they still just get mad and get up and leave. I shot one with my 308 a couple of years ago and it was a very solid hit. I watched him squirm wondering when he was going to give up and finally shot him again to keep him from crawling off. Last year I got my 22cm. I shot one too far back and in the gut and it ripped a hole big enough that he didn’t go anywhere. That 22cm is awesome for coyotes...but would be a lot more rifle to carry than a 22.

  • @dddoo7 said in Primal Finish:

    I can see needing to re-zero after it was all broken down and put back together.

    Especially if it's not bedded.

    I remember once I took a TS Customs rifle over to Travis for some work. We removed the action from stock, pulled the barrel, took scope rail off, disassembled bolt... etc. Basically tore everything down to zero. Got it all back together and it shot 0.1 (one tenth) mil from its original zero. :)

  • So these pics are of the barrel caps that Bigfoot made for me. Before these I would have to carefully tape off the thunderbeast brakes on barrels that I coated. It was not a big deal, but was very time consuming.

    Bigfoot made these caps that screw right on to the brake and bottom out exactly at the right point. With these, all I do is screw them on and paint. They also have a hole to run a wire through to make it easy to hang the barrels.

    Thanks for the caps Bigfoot. They are a very intricate piece to machine and they work flawlessly. You are talented.




  • Look familiar? Yep, some more of Primal Finish's nice work. Matches my rifle DD did for me. I better not leave it out in the pasture or I may never find it.

  • I got a surprise in the mail today. Bigfoot made some 1/2-28 and 5/8-24 barrel caps. These make coating barrels much easier. I just screw them onto the barrel and use the hole in the hanger to hang them. Bigfoot went above and beyond on these. Excellent knurling and really cool hangers on top.

    Thanks for these, Bigfoot!!!


  • @dddoo7 I'm glad you like them. My old lathe isn't all that accurate so I try to do a little detail on pieces like these. Hope your business picks up and you need some more. I've been using my tumbler every day and knock on wood I haven't dropped it on the concrete yet. I try to drink three or more a day of water to keep the old kidneys flushed. I have a question though. Will brake cleaner damage the coating? I use it to degrease parts and I always have the tumbler on my shop table.

  • @bigfoot

    I have not experimented with brake cleaner yet. I use acetone exclusively and I know that acetone will not hurt the cerakote once it is fully baked out. I don't think brake clean will hurt the surface either. I'll try to experiment with it later today and see. This cerakote is crazy resistant to chemicals. I have been surprised what it can hold up to.

  • @dddoo7
    Probably not if acetone won't cut it. I had some O'Reilly's brand flammable brake cleaner that took paint off. It smelled just like lacquer thinner. Talk about a bomb. We used some stuff called chloroethene to degrease fittings when I was an instrument fitter helper. There is no telling what that stuff can do to you they told us not to get it on our skin but never said to use or supplied gloves. I was threading brass pipe and would dip it into the solvent and slowly pull it out and watch it vaporize and the pipe would be spotless. Flip it around and do the other end and use a rag so you wouldn't touch it. Couldn't do that nowadays shouldn't have done it then. My fitter I worked with had spots on his liver and was only a few years older than me. The plant we worked in made benzene and Jimmy worked in that unit a lot. I was only there three months luckily.

  • @bigfoot
    Actually that stuff was Chlorothene, a Dow Chemical trade name. It's nasty stuff.

  • Love the cerakote job! I want to look at something like this on my next build.

  • @painless

    I really like this pattern. It blends in really well.

  • Bigfoot,
    Got a question about the cap you made.
    I have just commissioned a build with Greg and Travis that will be using a Proof barrel and it will have a timed TBAC break on it. They advised to not ever remove the break because there is not enough bearing surface to clamp in a normal vise to stay off the carbon fiber.
    I will be shooting this rifle unsuppressed every one in a while in hunting situations and would like to have a cap that would cover the entire break and hold up to the pressures. Is this something you could make?

  • @painless Might ought to take that up with Travis. I don't know if I have ever seen or heard of someone constricting a muzzle brake.

  • A quick search and they do make brake covers for close quarter use however they are threaded to specific brakes and appear to be made of steel. It would be more of a moderator instead of a suppressor that directs the muzzle blast away.

  • @bigfoot Called a " Pig Cover " . First time I ever heard of this. Sounds like it attaches by threads only.

  • @painless @orkan

    What about doing a 5/8-24 CB Flash Hider for mounting painless' CB attach suppressor to? It'll add .5-.7" length it looks like, but would allow the mount to be removed and a blended cap to be used when hunting without a suppressor or brake.

    It's not viable to go back and forth with a CB brake because the brake needs to be torqued to the barrel tight enough that it doesn't come off in your suppressor. Because if it comes if in the suppressor, you now have a direct thread can as there is nothing to get a hold on to remove the brake from the suppressor. The CB flash hider has a collar and wrench flats that will extend out of the back of the suppressor.

  • @tscustoms I see what you are saying but you lose the brake effect. As a matter of fact no brake. I'm not the man for this job anyway. I would want this done on a cnc machine using 4140 or some alloy recommended by someone with knowledge of this application. If whatever was attached decided to lock up on the threads it wouldn't be good. The threads need to be spot on and the inside taper as well. Travis on the other hand.........

  • @bigfoot I don't think the brake is desired at all when not using his suppressor.

  • @tscustoms That's something that needs to be discussed I guess. What do you think about a cover for a flash suppressor? Is there any pressure concerns since the gasses are going forward instead of sideways or does a flash suppressor direct them out so as to not create a larger flame or fireball. Here's an idea, chop the end off of the flash hider and call it good. You have the wrench flats to get it off and back it up to attach the suppressor.

  • @bigfoot I'm not entirely sure how a flash suppressor works so I can't comment on the pressure difference with a cover on it.
    I don't see the need to cut up the flash hider. It would be inside the suppressor during use, not even on the barrel when not in use.

  • @tscustoms Let me see if I am getting this right. The flash hider I am looking at on the Thunder Beast website attaches to the barrel and is torqued. You don't remove it unless you just have to. The suppressor attaches to it and mates up on the tapered shoulder and the .950 threads. So why cover it when the suppressor is off? Sounds like he doesn't want a noisy assed brake so I can't see the difference by covering the flash suppressor and just having the adapter on the end of the barrel after the flash suppressor has been modified. Using the suppressor or brake just to attach a sound suppressor seems to be the dilemma.

  • Sorry guys I just got home and checked the thread. Been a rough day! I definitely do not want to add any length to the the barrel. I will not ever shoot this rifle with just the brake, 99% of the time it will be suppressed, it’s the very few times I hunt out of country where suppressors are banned that I wanted the option to just have a threaded cap. What’s your thoughts of just cutting the brake portion off the mount? May be a terrible idea but just a thought. I do know a guy that runs a machine shop I may get with him, just a little worried about the pressure.

  • @painless They have thread protectors for the brakes/flash hiders and you don't want a brake so a flash hider is it but it has the flutes or whatever they are called sticking out when the sound suppressor is removed. A cover would indeed hide it but I echo Travis as to pressure concerns, I just don't know. If it was mine I would do it. Might get my brother in law to test fire it. Just kidding.:)

  • @bigfoot Can't cut the brake portion off of the mount because that's where the wrench flats are. The flash hider has them at the rear on the outside of mount. Daniel figured that out when this conversation started. I got a slow start understanding what was going on. I do better when stuff is in front of me.

  • 10-4 gues I better remember my ear pro!