Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup



  • It has become quickly apparent to me that reloading is in my very near future. I have been collecting some items already, but I need to see what else I am going to need. I will start watching sales, used market, etc and pick items up as I can.

    What I already have/have selected:
    Hornady comparator/headspace/mod cases/oal gauge for all my calibers
    A&D 300i scales (no thrower/trickler)
    CPS Primer
    Calipers/micrometers/etc (a machinist by profession)
    Forster Co-ax press (Don't have yet, everyone out of stock)

    What I know I need:
    Annealer
    Tumbler
    Dies (This is the area that I know the least about)
    Runout Gauge
    Case Trimmer
    Pocket Prep Tools

    So what am I missing? And what would be good choices for brands and models of these items? Not really a buy-cheap-now kind of guy, especially when it comes to tools. I would rather get solid equipment that will take me well down the road.



  • @flyinphill

    Trimmer: Giraud is the best trimmer by far

    Annealer: I have been pleased with my bench source annealer but don’t have any experience really with any others except for a friends annealez which sucks

    Dies: Forester and whidden are both good choices

    Tumbler: I have the smaller Dillon tumbler and it’s been rock steady for 15 years or so. I’ve been happy with it, I’ll go with the bigger one when it finally dies. I’m sure there are other good choices out there though

    As for primer pocket uniformers and flash hole deburs, starting with quality brass such as lapua will eliminate much of the need for these tools although they are still good to have around. I have a set of Lyman prep tools and they have served me well.



  • TRIMMER. I use a Wilson Sinclair trimmer. It's a slow process to trim cases but I find it very precise and consistent.

    ANNEALER. Bench Source... Greg recommended it... Good enough for me.

    DIES. Forster FL Resize, and Forster Micrometer Seating Dies. Another Greg recommend and working great. Slight differences in Base to Ogive seating depths seem to be a result of variances of bullet dimensions between the ogive and the meplat. Note I do not sort bullets. TS Benchmark barrels seem to be so forgiving, I don't find it necessary.

    Runout Guage. I got a Century 21 before he was a Goober to Greg. I'd check with Greg for a recommend.

    Tumbler. Hate mine. It's an old barrel type I bought over 30 years ago I don't see a brand. You take one side of the barrel off and put your cases in, replace the barrel end and the barrel rotates on its axis. MINE TAKES FOR EVER... I was waiting for its demise. Might just speed it along.



  • I have an extra Forster coax new in the box. I bought several of them a few years ago as a hedge investment and have one left. I would take $325 shipped for it. It will be repackaged in a large flat rate box...or I can get you the price difference for shipping in original box. If interested let me know.



  • @flyinphill said in Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup:

    So what am I missing? And what would be good choices for brands and models of these items?

    Here are some smaller items that weren’t in your list that can add up:

    1. powder funnel(s):
      -Xtreme or Area419

    2. Loading Trays:
      -custom or universal

    3. Reloading boxes or Bullet binders

    4. Primer Flip tray:
      -need to be able to flip all primers anvil down before loading into the CPS tubes. I thought @orkan was hinting about a better system in the works, but other than that, most any brand can get the job done (with some time shaking them on the ridges).

    5. Reloading Manual:
      Nice to have at least one to reference, rather than searching all over the internet

    6. Bullet Puller:
      At some point during your reloading adventures you will probably want to pull a bullet from the case without the firearm. Kinetic hammer types do better to salvage the projectile, but the powder gets thrown. Collet/clamp types mar the projectile but salvage the powder.

    Lastly, I’m not following on your intent on the powder throwing.
    If you aren’t getting that relatively newer auto system you will need some basic way to throw consistent amounts and trickle it on the scale.

    You sound like you are off to a great start.



  • Imperial sizing wax.

    Forster or Whidden dies. (if whidden, make sure die is cut with reamer, not single point)

    Accuracy One runout gauge seems nice.

    Giraud trimmer is nice, but I tire of dealing with the custom case holders.

    Pocket prep tools are not really necessary if you're buying good brass. Pocket and flash hole uniformers are cheap though.

    Short handle for your co-ax.

    Shell holder jaws for your co-ax. (it only comes with standard)

    Upgraded jaw holder for co-ax from Mike Manzella - Email manzgear@gmail.com

    Loading block from Mike Manzella - Email manzgear@gmail.com

    Thumlers tumbler - UV-18.

    Bench source annealer.

    Lee-autoprime-style shell holders for CPS. (sinclair sells em too)

    Extra primer tubes.

    Inline fabrication QD mounts for various presses/tools.

    https://amzn.to/2KwK2sJ - lyman prep center, good for manual chamfer.

    I'm sure there's far more I'm forgetting... but you can always call and ask me. :)



  • @midwestside said in Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup:

    Here are some smaller items that weren’t in your list that can add up:

    1. powder funnel(s):
      -Xtreme or Area419

    I don’t have much to add here, as I’m using most of the stuff that’s being recommended here.

    I have the 419 funnel, and while it works, it’s not optimum in my opinion. I find it’s too heavy, which causes the case it’s on to tip to the side, especially on small cases. Also I’m of the opinion that the hole that drops over the case neck needs more of a chamfer. It’s slow to move it from case to case when you get going.

    If hardcore funnels are the other option I’d go that way, but I haven’t tried them myself.



  • @tackyp said in Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup:

    I have the 419 funnel, and while it works, it’s not optimum in my opinion. I find it’s too heavy, which causes the case it’s on to tip to the side, especially on small cases. Also I’m of the opinion that the hole that drops over the case neck needs more of a chamfer. It’s slow to move it from case to case when you get going.
    If hardcore funnels are the other option I’d go that way, but I haven’t tried them myself.

    I've experienced similar "tippyness" if you aren't supporting the funnel with one hand while dumping with the other hand. I'd add that I think this is where custom reloading trays, or at least ones with holes bored with a casehead specific hole, shine. Area419 makes them, but like anything nice, they don't come cheap. Frankford Arsenal makes similar ones from polymer in lieu of aluminum, that are cheaper, but are much more secure than any "universal" tray makers out there with a square hole, or a relatively shallow "cup."

    And yes, prometheus owners can just thumb their noses at us! :P



  • @midwestside said in Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup:

    And yes, prometheus owners can just thumb their noses at us! :P

    536ab4a59c2553d0ae43480e7222ce41.jpg



  • @orkan now that is funny..



  • A paper clip to inspect the inside wall of the casings for anomalies.



  • @orkan said in Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup:

    Imperial sizing wax.

    Forster or Whidden dies. (if whidden, make sure die is cut with reamer, not single point)

    Accuracy One runout gauge seems nice.

    Giraud trimmer is nice, but I tire of dealing with the custom case holders.

    Pocket prep tools are not really necessary if you're buying good brass. Pocket and flash hole uniformers are cheap though.

    Short handle for your co-ax.

    Shell holder jaws for your co-ax. (it only comes with standard)

    Upgraded jaw holder for co-ax from Mike Manzella - Email manzgear@gmail.com

    Loading block from Mike Manzella - Email manzgear@gmail.com

    Thumlers tumbler - UV-18.

    Bench source annealer.

    Lee-autoprime-style shell holders for CPS. (sinclair sells em too)

    Extra primer tubes.

    Inline fabrication QD mounts for various presses/tools.

    https://amzn.to/2KwK2sJ - lyman prep center, good for manual chamfer.

    I'm sure there's far more I'm forgetting... but you can always call and ask me. :)

    Orkan did you get a chance to test the industrial UV 18 Tumbler(blue Stipe)? I recall you said you had the yellow stripe model. The industrial is about $170 more.



  • I am getting the Forster from ddd007, and now I am looking at a tumbler. As martino asked above, what is the practical/functional difference between the yellow-striped standard and blue-striped industrial models in the Thumler UV-18 line? Looking at the spec sheet the only difference that can be determined is a 50% increase in motor power for the industrial model. That is a considerable price difference for just a motor upgrade.

    Also I see some reviews on where people complain that they are not supposed to be used for wet media. Is this true? The Thumler site is from 2002 and is sadly lacking in useful information with no instructions, and limited details about the various models.



  • I have not used a blue stripe thumlers UV before. As I understand it, they have more powerful motors which in theory would allow them to be filled with more brass before having any issues with circulation.

    I'm waiting to hear how the big ultravibe 45 does before I buy another tumbler.



  • @flyinphill said in Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup:

    I am getting the Forster from ddd007, and now I am looking at a tumbler. As martino asked above, what is the practical/functional difference between the yellow-striped standard and blue-striped industrial models in the Thumler UV-18 line? Looking at the spec sheet the only difference that can be determined is a 50% increase in motor power for the industrial model. That is a considerable price difference for just a motor upgrade.

    Also I see some reviews on where people complain that they are not supposed to be used for wet media. Is this true? The Thumler site is from 2002 and is sadly lacking in useful information with no instructions, and limited details about the various models.

    I researched this a little while back and from the manufacturing source that stated the blue-striped tumbler is designed to be water tight so that wet tumbling can be done, where the yellow-striped one is not. And the more powerful motors are for handling the extra load that wet tumbling puts on it. So, if one is really only doing dry tumbling, the blue-striped tumbler really provides no real value over the yellow-striped one . . . . except, maybe the more powerful motor may have a little more longevity and maybe handle heavier dry loads better.



  • @straightshooter1 said in Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup:

    So, if one is really only doing dry tumbling, the blue-striped tumbler really provides no real value over the yellow-striped one . . . . except, maybe the more powerful motor may have a little more longevity and maybe handle heavier dry loads better.

    So do you have first hand experience with the blue striped tumblers? ... or are you just talking out of your ass again?

    ... because based on my experience, the more powerful motor the tumbler has, the more brass you can stick in it before circulation slows. Yet I have not used the blue stripe model so I can not give definitive proclamations such as "it provides no real value." If my guess is correct... neither can you.



  • @orkan said in Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup:

    @straightshooter1 said in Starting From Scratch on a Reloading Setup:

    So, if one is really only doing dry tumbling, the blue-striped tumbler really provides no real value over the yellow-striped one . . . . except, maybe the more powerful motor may have a little more longevity and maybe handle heavier dry loads better.

    So do you have first hand experience with the blue striped tumblers? ... or are you just talking out of your ass again?

    My "ass" was a person at the manufacturing company that explained the difference and why there was a blue and yellow stripe.



  • @straightshooter1

    If you'd provide the information the manufacturer said, and leave it at that... there would be no problem. However you just seem to always have to add conjecture which you have ZERO experience with.

    the blue-striped tumbler really provides no real value over the yellow-striped one

    Says who? Has ANYONE rice tumbled with one and provided feedback. ... because I've never seen that report.

    ... and because you can't seem to understand the difference between what a "manufacturer said" and personal experience with what people here are asking about... You can have a one week ban. If you don't understand the difference between providing what information you have and providing statements of fact which you can't possibly prove, you can feel free to just not come back.



  • Got my Forster Coax for ddd007 a couple of days ago. Next on the list, probably next week, I think I am going to get a Thumler UV-18 Industrial model (blue stripe). I tend to overbuy instead of underbuy, it usually works out in the long run. So I will pony up the extra cash now for the more powerful model.


 

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