Reconfigured my BenchSource Annealer

  • PPR3M06h.jpg


    With the swirl flame torches I use, I don't need two torches. My cycle times are about 1.5 seconds... as fast as the machine will go... on thin brass. However I still couldn't do long runs of BR brass due to the short stubby case. This allows me to get the torch super low and point it at an upward angle. This setup is actually significantly easier to adjust, since all I have to do is loosen one clamp and raise the rod upward, but it also provides more consistent annealing as the flame wraps up and around more smoothly.

    I'm liking it thus far.

  • @orkan where did you find the torch head? How does this work with thicker brass like Lupua .308? I wouldn't mind simplifying my benchsource and also adding a 20lb bottle instead of the two bottle set-up I have now.

  • I got it on amazon. I can't find the specific one I purchased anymore. Bernzomatic is just a ridiculous company to try and keep up with. No kidding, they have modified their product offering about 2 dozen times in the last year alone... for something as simple as a friggin torch.

    Were I to order one today to try, it would be this one:

  • Good deal..I'm going to get one coming. I like the fact that it has the electronic more hair-less knuckles! :thumbsup: I think this will be a definite improvement.

  • What did you do? just borrow the second post and clamp?

    When I do 300 bo in long runs the plate definitely gets warm. This would be a much better option.

    I also have this same torch and am running about 3 sec time. Is there any down side to turning the torch up and running 1.5 sec like you are? I have to adjust the gas on the torch now anyway to get the right I assume it would work the same just more flame.

  • @dddoo7 said:

    What did you do? just borrow the second post and clamp?


    Is there any down side to turning the torch up and running 1.5 sec like you are?

    I haven't seen one. Take a look at the dot drill I am going to post in my .223AI thread here shortly. ;)

    I just run the torch hotter/closer to get the desired anneal. Right is right. How you get there doesn't hardly matter, or so it would seem.

  • I did some Tig welding in Highschool and for about 6 months after High school. I know with tig welding one can achieve the same quality and strength of weld with a hotter torch moving faster...but it takes more skill to run fast and not blow through. The advantage on welding faster is obviously production...but also it inputs less heat overall into the metal being welded.

    I can see a very definite advantage to inputting less heat overall into the brass as it would not travel down the brass as far. I am going to have to try this method as well. Faster production would definitely be nice!

  • @dddoo7 said:

    I can see a very definite advantage to inputting less heat overall into the brass as it would not travel down the brass as far.

    That was my thinking. ... and with the torch angled up like this and a bit closer to the case, I can have the torch impacting the case a bit lower, without sacrificing consistency up on the neck. Of course the best byproduct of this torch setup is not cooking the annealing plate on the machine. I'm really digging it.

  • @orkan plate has seen some wear from the torch after tens of thousands of 300 blackout...but it still works fine. Will definitely last longer this way though.

    I have also been annealing 500 S&W to see if it helps them last longer. On the magnum handgun rounds I usually get split necks at about 4 loadings...but I am having to put a pretty heavy crimp on them to keep them from pulling with recoil. I assume annealing with help stop the split necks...but time will tell. I'm on the second loading on this 500 brass.

  • I'm new to this forum so hello everybody! I saw this post a few days ago and I have been looking for a different torch for my bench source annealer. I couldn't find the one used in this post but got a TS99 swirl flame torch which seams pretty close. I set it up and tried it today and no matter how I angled the torch or any other adjustments I made it always disscolored the brass way down one side but the rest of the case looks good. I've not had this problem before. I think it's happening when the plate rotates into the fire there is a slight pause before the case is rotated so that one area is catching more heat. Anyone else having this issue?

  • I have not had that issue before. Maybe Orkan has some advice.

  • @bull81 I've not had that issue. My thought would be that there is flame coming out of the torch which you can not see. Perhaps turn the lights way down so you can see all the "fire?"

    Otherwise, the pause my machine has before and after rotation is quite short. Certainly doesn't cause a problem as long as I have the torch setup correctly.

    Perhaps you're running the torch tip too close to the case? Can you share some pics?

  • I new on this forum so I'll have to try and figure how to do the pictures. I'm strictly speculating about the pause before and after rotation, my machine only pauses for an extremely short period of time as well.

  • Going to switch out my flames, they seem pretty much impossible to get them burning consistently and downsizing to one torch will help my setup and swap out.

    @orkan stll using the bench source this way?

  • @alfmoonspace Yes. One good swirl flame is the way to go.

  • I need to give the TS99 a try, the od on the tip is way too big on the ts8000 for the bencesource and the od on the shaft is too small.

  • Ordered the TS99 from Amazon last week. Got it today. Not what I was expecting... The body of the torch caught on fire and melted the handle.



    Found a JT539 on ebay today so I am going to use that for now.

  • @alfmoonspace
    That’s the same torch I run and I’ve never had any problems out of it. Hope nothing else got damaged. I’ll keep a close watch on mine now for sure

  • @bull81 I shut it down real quick. Luckily a I was able to blow it out and nothing else got damaged.

    Must of gotten a bad apple.