Gun Case foam cutout help
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I have a cabelas armor extreme double gun case that I'm going to cut out for my Desert Tech. I want to carry my Desert Tech, and any of my conversions (when I get the money saved up).
So what I'm hoping to have is:
Rifle/scope
2 additional conversions (not including installed conversion)
2 slots for bolts for those additional conversions (if needed)
2 suppressors
3 mags (1 for each conversion, if needed)
spot for bolt stops (not in diagram)I figure I will cut it all out, and then just put the foam back in until I need those spaces.
Here are my cutouts (excuse the awesome scissor-work)
Any comments?
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https://forums.gunhive.com/topic/86/how-to-for-cutting-foam-in-a-pelican-case
@dddoo7 already did a piece on it.
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In my opinion...there are a few changes I would make to your layout.
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I would cut the foam to where you can put the rifle in the case with a mag in the rifle. I would cut it out for the largest mag and then any mag that is in the rifle will work.
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I would not cut that close around the scope. Let the scope float and let the foam hold the rifle. That also allows you to move or change the scope and not have to recut the foam. The Bipod should also have a space cut large enough to float.
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I would...if at all possible try to cut it where the suppressors can remain attached to the barrels. It doesn't look very possible in your setup...but it is much more convenient.
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There should be 3 layers of foam in the case...and not everything needs a full layer of protection. I would cut a single spot for the bolts and then stack them with a thin layer (1/4") of foam between them. I might even do the same with the suppressors if you can't attach them to the barrels. You can cut the bottom two layers and fit the suppressors in the same hole. If you keep them in the mirage covers they won't need any more protection.
I am not a fan of the open cell foam you have...but it will give you some good practice cutting at the very least. I have directions for building a hot wire cutter in the post linked above...I have tried many different methods and have not found an easier or cleaner way to cut foam. I really like closed cell foam for rifles...and have gotten to the point now that I buy it in 1" thicknesses and just stack it and glue it for whatever thickness I want. I don't think it is worth ordering 2" closed cell.
If you have any questions let me know. Looks like a good start.
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I've been meaning to ask because I need to do this too.
What sort of clearance do you recommend on both ends of the rifle? The reason I ask is because this rifle has only a 1/4 inch or so of foam at either end.
I figure if I cut the grip and magizine area close it'll prevent it from shifting in the case a huge amount. Otherwise I need to step up to a larger case that I had been saving for the LRM Travis is working on for me.
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@dddoo7 said:
In my opinion...there are a few changes I would make to your layout.
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I would cut the foam to where you can put the rifle in the case with a mag in the rifle. I would cut it out for the largest mag and then any mag that is in the rifle will work.
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I would not cut that close around the scope. Let the scope float and let the foam hold the rifle. That also allows you to move or change the scope and not have to recut the foam. The Bipod should also have a space cut large enough to float.
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I would...if at all possible try to cut it where the suppressors can remain attached to the barrels. It doesn't look very possible in your setup...but it is much more convenient.
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There should be 3 layers of foam in the case...and not everything needs a full layer of protection. I would cut a single spot for the bolts and then stack them with a thin layer (1/4") of foam between them. I might even do the same with the suppressors if you can't attach them to the barrels. You can cut the bottom two layers and fit the suppressors in the same hole. If you keep them in the mirage covers they won't need any more protection.
I am not a fan of the open cell foam you have...but it will give you some good practice cutting at the very least. I have directions for building a hot wire cutter in the post linked above...I have tried many different methods and have not found an easier or cleaner way to cut foam. I really like closed cell foam for rifles...and have gotten to the point now that I buy it in 1" thicknesses and just stack it and glue it for whatever thickness I want. I don't think it is worth ordering 2" closed cell.
If you have any questions let me know. Looks like a good start.
Thanks @dddoo7 !
I definitely have enough room with my 26" 7LRM with Sico Hybrid to leave the suppressor attached.
The only time it wouldn't fit, if I have a 338 or 300 NM with a barrel longer than 27-28".
(Some of the cutouts got jostled around when I was quick trying to snap a pick.)
That's a good idea about stacking the bolts/suppressors. I could even do that with the mags if I left them lay on their side.
That would give me much more room.
Thanks for the the input!
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Everything I read said to leave 1".
If you ran the rifle corner-to-opposite-corner, would that give you more room? Might not look as nice, but might give more foam at the ends.The cabelas armor extreme is on sale for $149. I had plenty of points to use, so I went that route since it was 50". I had thought hard about a pelican, but this deal was too good with my cabelas points.
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1" is what most people say. In my opinion...the butt end doesn't need quite as much as the barrel end...so if you had to go close on one or the other I would leave the clearance at the muzzle. The higher quality the foam the less foam you need to protect the rifle. I would be willing to do with quite a bit less foam around the sides if you used closed cell. Something in the 2.0-2.2 lb range would be very nice.
stacking mags works too and you will have to see which way you like better. I would rather have them standing up even if they were standing together in one cut opening without foam between them. Lets face it...even if the mags rub a little it is not going to hurt them. I throw the mags loose in my tac ops bag and they do just fine.
I would cut the case to accommodate the rifle with the barrel attached. If you cut it for the short barrel with suppressor attached it will work fine for the long barrel without the suppressor.
Do you have 1 barrel or two for your SRS? How often will you need more than 1 barrel out of the safe at a time? Your real estate in your case might be better spend holding a cleaning kit/rod or other accessories like a kestrel, range finder, etc.
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Is the LRM going to be in the same stock as that rifle? If so...then the same cut out should work for both rifles and that would allow you to put it in the larger case. They shouldn't be stored against the foam anyway...so you would probably only have one at a time in the case.
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I was also considering placing the butt against the side of the case. I kinda figure it was designed to absorb recoil....
But since you approve I'll order up some 2.2 pound closed cell foam, and give it a try. I think 1/2 at the muzzle will be enough if I cut the grip and mag kinda tightly.
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Same idea as that stock (McMillan game scout; this one is a Manners T6), but a 26 inch barrel in a lighter contour. The one pictured is 22 inch M24.
I suppose I can wait a little bit and see what it looks like when I get it from Travis and have some time to mount the scope up.
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Yes...I think so.
I would order it in 1" thicknesses however many you need to fill the case. 1" is plenty on the bottom and top for closed cell foam. Then you can likely fit more than 1 layer in the middle just as I did in my tutorial.
Is that a pelican storm case (3xxx) or a regular pelican case (17xx)?
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I'll have to check on the big one when I get home.
The smaller one is a Plano knock off of some sort.
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cool. Keep in mind that you might need to order a 1/2" or 1 1/2" layer as well to fill the space. The pelican storm cases are 6" thick while the regular pelican cases are something like 5.5. I'm not sure what your case is...but obviously order foam in denominations that will fit the case without slop as far as thickness goes.
You will never regret the closed cell foam...and you will never be happy with open cell again.
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@dddoo7 said:
1" is what most people say. In my opinion...the butt end doesn't need quite as much as the barrel end...so if you had to go close on one or the other I would leave the clearance at the muzzle. The higher quality the foam the less foam you need to protect the rifle. I would be willing to do with quite a bit less foam around the sides if you used closed cell. Something in the 2.0-2.2 lb range would be very nice.
stacking mags works too and you will have to see which way you like better. I would rather have them standing up even if they were standing together in one cut opening without foam between them. Lets face it...even if the mags rub a little it is not going to hurt them. I throw the mags loose in my tac ops bag and they do just fine.
I would cut the case to accommodate the rifle with the barrel attached. If you cut it for the short barrel with suppressor attached it will work fine for the long barrel without the suppressor.
Do you have 1 barrel or two for your SRS? How often will you need more than 1 barrel out of the safe at a time? Your real estate in your case might be better spend holding a cleaning kit/rod or other accessories like a kestrel, range finder, etc.
I only have 1 barrel now, but hoping to have another sometime towards the end of summer.
I don't have a kestrel yet, but if I were to stack the bolts and suppressors, I could leave a spot where the suppressor is behind the scope, and leave room for my range finder too.If I travel to my brothers house to shoot or to the range, it would be nice to have the caliber changes. But I think if I stack those things, I'll have enough room for what I think I would need.
I did see a post somewhere, where a guy stuck his cleaning rod under the top layer of top foam, incase he needed it. I could always dump one up there.
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I have done that with the cleaning rod and it works well. The cleaning rod doesn't need protection either so it can sit right against the outside of the case. If you cut out for the handle...and then just cut a slit with a razor knife for the rest it will hold the rod very well. doesn't have to go all the way through the foam for the rod part.
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@curt1521
Do you have a hot wire foam cutter? If not and you didn't want to make your own, just send me a message and I can probably help you out. I've done quite a few and would argue they look & work a lot better than some of the electric knife butcher jobs I've seen out there.
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Nice offer!!!
Hot foam wire is the ONLY way to go. Don't ruin your foam with other methods. :)
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@midwestside said:
@curt1521
Do you have a hot wire foam cutter? If not and you didn't want to make your own, just send me a message and I can probably help you out. I've done quite a few and would argue they look & work a lot better than some of the electric knife butcher jobs I've seen out there.I do not have one. I sent you a message!
