In looking around I guess I never introduced my self.
My name is Dave and I have been into guns, shooting and hunting since I was 10-11yrs old (49yrs now). I am the only one in my immediate family that had this interest and desire so what I have learned I for the most part was on my own to find the answer. Out of my entire family only me and my cousin have this hardcore hobby. The first gun I got (after the BB gun) was an Marlin Golden 39A 22lr my dad bought me for my 12th Birthday.
I am a grandson of Dairy farmers so as I was young the outdoors were something I knew and enjoyed. While I had no desire for the farming aspect (while helping and bailing hay you quickly realize if it's for you or not) I am very proud of that side of my family and have great respect for farmers and what they do.
I am married and have no children but love my 2 dogs and those before them. So my wife and I are dog lovers, I have been around them all my life. My mom and dad even bred and showed Old English Sheepdogs for years when I was younger.
While I am still learning the tech. side of shooting and reloading I really enjoy shooting and owning them. I have never sold any gun I have acquired, I just get another one when I can afford it after life's responsibilities.
Just heard the interview on precision rife podcast and was interested in the load data & gun logging. I will be watching the forum and hope to add to discussions as appropriate ( no keyboard sniper here lol).
@orkan missed that.
On a side note, I don't know if you've heard of the Modern day Sniper podcasts, its made by Caylen Wojcik and Phillip Velayo. A lot of what they're saying reminds me of your class, they going into the mind, and getting to the point where tasks are done unconsciously. Really similar to what you teach even down to a meditation aspect.
Have not posted an update, but have been to range both weeks since last post. Let's just say I have hit a plateau.
2 weeks ago I ran 35 rounds through the 223. Not really much to say, other than the Lapua 223 I finally got shoots very well for bulk ammo. Almost as good as the Fed GM Sierra Match. But I am still not getting things right. I would have a few good shots here and there, even a couple of decent groups, but I just can't get any consistency. At the end, I tried shifting my hips to the right, and that seemed to really solve the problem of the stock moving away from me on recoil. It seemed to help square up my shoulders and get a better spine/shoulder alignment. But I did not have anyone to observe me, and no way to take a picture of my position, so I don't know if what I did was actually a good thing. But I left feeling like I had potentially figured something out.
I went back last weekend, and it was more or less a disaster. Right off the bat I could not find anything productive with the 223. Nothing I did from the previous session seemed to be giving the same results. I don't know if I had a single good shot the entire 25 rounds I put through it. I would have a few where the reticle was back on target after the shot, but I could see it moving all around between the shot and the return. The reticle POA would be the same location at start and finish, but a bunch of movement in between. I seemed as if I have been able to eliminate the movement of the stock away from me during recoil, but appears that I have created a new issue with movement at the front.
So then I switched back to the 308 for the first time in several weeks. It was simply horrible. Every shot I took had the bipod bouncing off the ground and landing to the left. There did not seem to be movement at my shoulder, just at the front of the gun.
I was using this chamber flag to mark the starting location of the bipod. This is a pic I took before a shot:
And this is a picture after a single shot:
As you can see, it jumped and moved to the left about an inch. I am reasonably confident that I was not getting movement at my shoulder. In fact after a few shots with a big bounce, I tried reaching out with my left hand, picking up the gun and setting the bipod back next to the chamber flag, all while trying to not let anything move at my shoulder/bag area. Doing this would put me very close back on target. So it seems that all the movement was at the front of the gun, and little/none at the rear.
I tried everything I know to correct this. I moved up on my shoulder, down on my shoulder, moved the system up, moved it down, more bipod load, less bipod load. Nothing worked at all. I ran 30 rounds and never got one shot that was even remotely good. In all it was truly one of the most frustrating days I have ever spent at the range. 3 hours, 55 shots, and I walked out of there feeling like I accomplished exactly zero. In fact, I left there more confused than when I got there.
This shot should be very telling of what was going on. This is 8 or 9 rounds of 308 at 100yds:
I have seen this before, about 2.5" of vertical stringing as a result of the muzzle rising on recoil. This looks exactly like the issue I was having when I was shooting left-handed. So far switching to right-handed has shown me no tangible dividends, I seem to be right back at the exact same place.
I am going to try and go back this weekend, but we have the remnants of a hurricane moving through. That might prevent me from getting there. We will see.
Since your surname isn’t Buffet, any gunsafe you’re likely to be able to afford is a Residential Security Container. The front door is the hardest point of entry. So look for heavier gauge welded steel on the 5 other walls. There will be holes in the back and bottom metal for securing the safe to the floor and a wall behind plus a hole for electric cord to run a heater, lights and perhaps a motion sensing alarm. Once a thief has access to the back, it’s game over. It opens like a sardine can starting with the power cord hole. Many times, the safe is simply tilted onto a dolly and wheeled away to be emptied at leisure. In general then it is best to get a heavier model and to fortify the bolts internally by running them through heavy gauge fender washers.
As far as keeping your guns from rusting, avoiding condensation is of utmost importance. A low wattage heater such as a Golden Rod will normally be far superior to desiccant cans. Understand that the fire rating is primarily based on the water of crystallization contained in the gypsum in the Sheetrock liner of the safe but gypsum also is highly hygroscopic, much more so than walnut so dehumidifiers dry and weaken stocks before they dry out gypsum. Nothing inhibits rust any better than a light film of grease on all metal surfaces.
All RSCs, gunsafes, are primarily useful to concentrate mass and slow down temperature change. ...and secondarily, lock you away from your own guns and important papers. A few minutes on YouTube will show you how to open any of the locking mechanisms nondestructively, so there is never any reason to drill the lock to open one. A thief will not care whether he causes a little damage turning the safe over, so he’ll go for the easy entry through the back. Battery locks are functionally as secure as mechanical combination locks and keyed locks.
I have been quite happy with a Winchester branded 5 foot high model that weighs about 900# empty. Taller models afford more volume for handguns, jewelry, and papers but are usually less efficiently configured for long gun storage.
There are really only a handful of manufacturers that OEM brand for the whole industry. The ID tag inside the door can guide you in comparing apples to apples as all models are built to a common set of standards. The name on the outside is really just a decal so don’t be misled by sales hype.
I've been hesitant to adopt a "mechanical" method of wind call... because it never seems to be blowing from the same way for the entire distance to the target, and my instinctive capabilities tend to get damaged if I ignore it and head to using a "calculator."
I'm quite interested in the various wind-reading doppler devices that are starting to show up.
I started with a "meat probe" type K sensor, but quickly found that the response time was too long. It was allowing the temps to swing by over 30 deg from high to low even though it was being controlled by a PID. The PID is only as good as the information it is being fed. This probe is much more fragile, but responds crazy quick. My temp swing is now only about 4 degrees at 180 or 5-6 degrees at 300.
We made it back to the range yesterday for a round of pistol shooting. I took my Beretta .40 and a Stainless Steel S&W 2206 .22 rim fire. If you can find one of these 2206's grab it, they are really good pistols and aren't in production any more. Mine has adjustable sights and a really good trigger that is adjustable for over travel and is all Stainless Steel. I found a place to buy a threaded adapter so a suppressor can be used. They are kind of made like a Model 41I wish I had bought a blued version as well. My friend took one of his Ruger Mark II target style 22's and also his Glock Killer and the new CZ Shadow he bought recently but had to send it in for a repair. They kept it a couple of weeks and this was what they did to correct the FTE situation.
"Work Performed: Polished extractor, adjusted breech face lead in. Function tested and test fired good with 115 gr S&B FMJ. If issue persists recommend trying a thinner recoil spring buffer."
He ran through several magazines fully gripped two handed with 124 grain hand loads and got one FTE. It was almost like a stove pipe jam the brass sticking out sideways the other times it was sitting in the action in line of the chamber but jammed with the next round underneath it. Had to drop the magazine out to get it cleared. I keep telling him to mark the magazines it might be one of the three doing this. Anyway, it did it once and other than that all our other hand cannons worked fine. I don't know much about CZ pistols or any for that matter but if it's a match gun I would think it need to be shot quite a bit to smooth it up and maybe feed it some decent ammo. Just sayin. :)
@tpk936 said in Dot Drill Report Thread:
ddd you inspired me. Stuck at home is getting boring. I only have 35 yards to shoot suppressed 22lr in my yard. I am shooting from back in my garage. Unfortunately I live in a neighborhood on an Acre and a quarter wooded lot but not enough, need another 20 acres. Logs make a good back drop and easy to staple to.
I need to keep this practice up. A little sloppy on a few shots.
Used GECO ammo.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Pretty clean. Looks good.
So I mentioned that I though the Bergara trigger was similar to the old Walker trigger that people sued Remington over.
Internally there's some design changes to the geometry of parts, but it functions pretty much the same as the Walker trigger. And should the pull weight/trigger return spring break, or should debris accumulate in the trigger mechanism this trigger will end up having the same issues as the Walker trigger.
A refresher on what that was, because the safety does not stop trigger movement (it only prevents the sear from falling) with the safety on the trigger can be pulled. If debris accumulates in the right areas (pretty easy to do the Bergara trigger has plenty of ways for debris to enter) or if the spring breaks the trigger will be unable to reset to engage the sear. So if the trigger gets pulled with the safety on, and doesn't reset, when the safety is released the sear will drop and the gun will go off.
Bergaras change in spring design will mostly prevent this from happening if someone improperly adjusts the trigger (something Remington alleged caused the issue) but if the spring breaks, or if dirt prevents the trigger from resetting, the result will be the same.
Pretty simple trigger design though, one adjustment screw, two springs.
I've tried to explain this (imo) design flaw to several people, but unfortunately people get to emotionally attached to the tools they buy and if you say anything bad you're just called a hater.
To me the first thing I would do with a Bergara going forward would be to replace the trigger. At least on their B14 series, their higher end Premier lineup use a TriggerTech Trigger.
@tan_90 just out of curiosity, there has to be some amount of cock on close or else the sear wouldn't engage with the trigger. So when you say no cock on close, does it mean basically coming as close to the sear as possible while maintaining reliability? Would that be around .010" past that point or something?
I seen your comment about the .242 pin fall and could tell without even measuring that my action has way more, I believe around .340. This might be something I have addressed when I can feel how much cock on close affects bolt manipulation. My concern is more of heavy bolt lift caused by the firing pin spring and cocking ramp. The primary extraction camming surfaces to bolt lug camming surface look to be timed perfectly and they are not working against each other what so ever. I wonder how I could lighten up that bolt lift without lightening the firing pin spring, any ideas?
Sun! Finally! Here's a poor cell phone photo of the starting point. Somehow managed to lose the threaded barrel that the forearm screw attaches to the hanger, so one more minor fabrication to be done.
The way I count it, today is the first day of the first shooting week of 2020. That means I'm done with the 2019 shooting year.
Here's my round count (the averages, etc are weekly):
And compared to last year:
So you will note that I shot 33% less rounds this year (and I only count rifle/carbine rounds in this number, not shotgun or pistol). The reason was we dumped everything we had into some more land and I haven't bought one rd of ammo since April. It did motivate me to start reloading :D
Of course, I will have to buy some rimfire, but I haven't shot up that much rimfire, I've restricted rimfire to vermin only, day and night. So I'm reloading for 308 now and the plan is that over the next few months I'll be reloading for 556 and .300WM. Those are the only three centerfire calibers I shoot, so that will cover everything.
So what were the highlights and lowlights in 2019?
Total overall average group sizes across 5 rifles on the RRS tripod were 13/16ths compared to 14.6/16th last year. I shot vastly higher percent of groups and wind practice off the tripod this year. In 2018, I was still using 100% manfrottos thru April 2018. So 2019 was the first year of 100% RRS.
Prone groups last year 12.2/16ths and this year 12.0/16ths ... the main change again, was less groups prone this year and actually I don't consider that to be good. I don't want to loose the prone skill. I can't use prone in the field much around here, but I want to practice it. And in part that's because I don't much like prone. I'd rather shoot of the tripod. So, if I don't like it ... then all the more reason the beat the crap out of myself and MAKE myself shoot more prone. So today, all shots were prone. :D
So net/net, no real change on group size.
As to wind practice (what I call shooting 500-800yds on my land ... as far as I've been able to get, though now I should have a spot I can shoot 1050yds. The percent of 1st rd hits on a given target was 73% overall. With 73% being the day percentage and 76% being the night percentage. Vastly more shots during the day. The shots were all on IPSC(2/3) steel, with some of the targets being the "face" only (the 6x6 piece at the top of the target). And the vast majority were off the tripod. During most of the year, from most of the positions, I can't see the targets prone. Too much grass in the way.
I did build another berm this year and that opened up another stage ... and I hope to build a third berm in 2020.
Most of the wind shots were with the T3 reticle using the wind dots. The wind dots allow adjustments for wind just by thinking what the new MPH of the wind is and holding in MPH. No need to look at ballistic calculator for wind at all.
I've also finally got the Kestrel 5700 AB Elite Link 100% working and I can synch it to the AB app on the phone to back everything up there. I can send the gun data in either direction. This will enable me to synch the gun data across multiple kestrels. I'm using G7 now across the board.
Right now, I'm still shooting up 1500 remaining 175gr SMK FGMM 7.62 load. This is generating a lot of brass !! And I'm reloading the 175gr as well, using the 175SMK, the FC brass (and for my buddy using the M118LR LC brass). Using varget. SDs are sub 10 and the MV is averaging around 2575 for the bolt guns. The GAP-10 with barlein barrel was getting 2611-2617 ... but I sold that and haven't shot the aero precision/ballistic advantage replacement yet.
Still cogitating on whether to load the 155gr to try to mimic the berger 155.5 cartridge. Or maybe just do a long coal 175gr and hope it can beat the 155gr. Right now, the berger 155 beast the socks off the 175gr standard length for danger space, lag time and energy.
I'm still finishing off the Black Hills 77 SMK with the 5.56(18) mk12-ish. I hope I can beat that load. Right now I'm getting 2751 MV, most recent measure. SD 16.4
And I have 370 A191 and 400 barnes 220 for the .300WM. I'll be loading the 220 SMK.
So I'll be loading 3-4 cartridges.
Standard length 175 SMK
Standard length 77 SMK
Standard length 220 SMK
Potentially a long coal 175 SMK.
On fundamentals. A trick showed to me by a member and an accident I had while shooting buddies stock REM700 308(20) together solved trigger issue. Then for most of the year I struggled with diopter setting and parallax removal issues, but as of now, I think I've solved those. So, now finally on to the breathing cycle. Trying to make the trigger break happen at the respiratory pause without forcing it.
Of course "solve" just means, for one layer of the onion. I don't think we ever get done improving fundamentals. But can I ever get consistent down to 0.5 inch ? IDK. I get strings of 3 groups sub 0.5 inch ... but not avg group size over 100s of rds. But my process is keep pounding on the fundamentals. The good news is, I think my analysis seems to be correct as to where the problem lie. So, if I can keep figuring out what to fix, then eventually, I will be able to fix it ... and on and on it goes for ever and the group sizes should be dropping. Well, that's how I measure if issues are being "solved".
So big goals for 2020
Get reloading up for all center fire rifle/carbine cartridges
Get stage set up to allow wind practice out to 1200yds.
For groups, use prone 50% of the time and whenever possible for wind practice.
Let's try setting avg group size 0.6 for prone and 0.75 for tripod for the group size goals.
Opened the barrel channel up and rezeroed the rifle. Doubt it’s a coincidence but it was exactly .4 mils low. I went home for lunch and dialed up 14 mils and then back down to zero and fired one round. Looks like the problem is solved
This will be my go to for back country elk. So I would be ok with some punishment to save a pound or so.
Got my DT for my typical ga whitetail gun, 1/2 to 1 mile walk!
Definitely going with Lone peak, 22” Proof, Trap door BTM and TT 3-15M.
@donnie said in Which cartridge will best fit these criteria?:
if a 243 AI or 6 creedmoor wont behave over 10-12 round strings, and maybe a 200 rnd match,
It's not that they don't behave during strings of fire, it's that they will just all of a sudden, change POI mid-match, for no other reason. Their nodes are significantly narrower and more finicky than the smaller 6mm's. They only go about 1100-1300rnds before they are about done for.
So it's not that they won't stay tight during a 12rnd string... its that they just wander POI every 50, 100, 150, or who knows how many rounds. They are just more unpredictable.
Which way were the crosshairs going during recoil?
Low right impacts would indicate rear of rifle is consistently being drawn up and left during recoil. Cause of this could be any number of things. If I saw a video of you shooting in these positions, I may be able to help.
Some things to think about:
Don't muscle the rifle to the point of overcompensation.
If you are supporting the rifle at the center of balance, try pulling it back a bit, putting more weight on you.
Don't over-squeeze the grip, as you'll have a natural tendency to pull up into you.
All aspects of NPA apply.
The top group is low right, the bottom group is low right... but the top group obviously had both horizontal and vertical NPA issues while the bottom group has significantly more vertical. If you evaluate your position for each, you'll likely find that your breathing and natural frame of motion was heavily molested on the top group, while the bottom you were likely more relaxed regarding frame of motion but not breaking the shots at the correct moment in your breathing cycle.
Just some general pointers, but as I said I really need to see it to offer anything of any weight.
The last match I shot at, we had targets out to 995yds. Some guys got skunked by the variable winds which surprisingly caused a lot of vertical, but after reading about aerodynamic jump or gyroscopic precession, it made sense. I got skunked on a stage where the wind was coming 3:00 10-15mph and I was hitting 2moa high, so I dropped 2 moa in my reticle and let one go just as the wind shifted and hit right. I played that game for 9 rounds lol. Some of the more experienced guys would see their splash, adjust and let 3-4 rounds go in a couple seconds, then wait for the wind to change and do it all over again. Shooting PRS matches has really opened my eyes!
Look up gyroscopic precession, that is the proper name for the dynamic phenomenon that is causing this. Tons of website info, videos, etc.
If you ever played with a toy gyroscope as a kid, you likely witnessed it. Push on the frame with the gyro spinning, and the reaction of deflection occurs at 90 degrees to that of the force being applied.
Helicopters depend on this effect for flight control.
My wife is a computer instructor and has had many issues with her eyes. High pressure, uveitis and has bionic vision after her cataract surgeries with high dollar lenses implanted. It used to drive me crazy, everything she saw on the ground was a snake. Now if she hollers snake I come a running. Kansas was referring to a detached retina and should be concerned if firing high powered firearms is a frequent activity. My wife's optometrist referred her to a specialist in Houston after a visit for eyeglasses years back, actually he has both titles the other is hard to spell, and what he diagnosed as uveitis could also had been a detached retina. We went to the retina institute there at Scurlock Towers and saw Dr Butner for a four hour examination and retina scan. One of the questions his nurse asked was if she shot high power rifles which perked me up and she said they had patients with retina damage that coincided with the concussion from high powered weapons. They also treated professional boxers there also but my wife has never been in the ring, I don't think so nor had she ever shot any guns at that time. She did have a bad case of uveitis and had floaters all in her line of vision. Couldn't even drive a car. They went away with medication. Anyway, take fish oil pills and use an eye lubricant and give them a rest. Those tiny muscles work their ass off doing their job. As for me, I take a rash of heat for not using our vision insurance I just have a bad case of white coat syndrome.
I should define what I was referring to is a "ladder" test -- for me it is as follows:
Simplified Rough Powder Ladder:
Load three rounds each increasing by .2 grains of powder min to max
As an example - 3x32.0, 3x32.2, 3x32.4, ect
Shoot all loaded rounds in round robin fashion at same point of aim at 600yd during a day where wind and mirage are minimal
Analyze target then repeat testing seating depth, fine powder, neck tension, ect.
I have dealt with a lot of gunsmiths some good some sucked.but Travis made the custom build experience very pleasant.He answered his phone and emails and was honest about time frames.When I have more custom work done he will be doing it for me. Im not surprised that he is doing so good. God Bless Ya Travis
In general I avoid "QD" anything ... as "QD" usually adds weight for no benefit. How many people with "QD" mounts actually regularly remove those items or attach those items .. in the field ? :D
Somehow I wound up with both m-lok and k-mod ... and then some guns have integral attach points ... so I use all flavors ...
Well I got bored today and chopped my broken Red Head rifle rest. Couple ugly farmer welds later, boom, makeshift bench rest. This should do until the Bald Eagle gets here.
I left the front end so I can weld a plate to it for a stop. Also the rear should clear extended mags.
This should actually work well in the field, maybe I'll use this one for shooting in dirty conditions.