In looking around I guess I never introduced my self.
My name is Dave and I have been into guns, shooting and hunting since I was 10-11yrs old (49yrs now). I am the only one in my immediate family that had this interest and desire so what I have learned I for the most part was on my own to find the answer. Out of my entire family only me and my cousin have this hardcore hobby. The first gun I got (after the BB gun) was an Marlin Golden 39A 22lr my dad bought me for my 12th Birthday.
I am a grandson of Dairy farmers so as I was young the outdoors were something I knew and enjoyed. While I had no desire for the farming aspect (while helping and bailing hay you quickly realize if it's for you or not) I am very proud of that side of my family and have great respect for farmers and what they do.
I am married and have no children but love my 2 dogs and those before them. So my wife and I are dog lovers, I have been around them all my life. My mom and dad even bred and showed Old English Sheepdogs for years when I was younger.
While I am still learning the tech. side of shooting and reloading I really enjoy shooting and owning them. I have never sold any gun I have acquired, I just get another one when I can afford it after life's responsibilities.
Just heard the interview on precision rife podcast and was interested in the load data & gun logging. I will be watching the forum and hope to add to discussions as appropriate ( no keyboard sniper here lol).
@bigfoot I had a 17HMR revolver years ago with a Burris Handgun scope mounted on it. It was very accurate, better than me, and had an extremely nice trigger. I used it on occasion while trail riding with my New Mexico cohort on the New Mexico side of Colorado below Antonito running due south of San Antonio mountain off of Hwy 285 comprising of around 55,000 acres. It was beautiful land, obtained by Mel's childhood friends' ancestors of the Garcia family of El Rito from bellied up homesteaders. The Garcia's had and still have a general store in El Rito and the old family members extended credit against deed to the homesteaders. Most if not all were never able to pay their debt.
Anyway, back to the 17HMR. It was a S&W 647 with around an 8 inch barrel and a 6 shot cylinder. It was effective. As with most any revolver, you had to be careful of hand placement from the blowout from the front of the cylinder. I don't remember why I let it go, but the craftsmanship of that revolver remains high on my list.
Disclaimer: I know nothing about Trigger Tech triggers or any Remington 700 pattern triggers for that matter.
I love my Kidd 10/22 two stage trigger, however. I have it set to 8 ounces on the first stage and 8 ounces on the second. The first stage has just enough travel to let me "settle" on the trigger and then I get the crisp and clean break of the second stage. To my untrained finger, the second stage break also feels very repeatable at the 8 ounce setting. I can highly recommend it for anyone who is looking to improve their 10/22 trigger. It is well built, durable, repeatable, and easy to adjust.
Kidd also makes a single stage 10/22 trigger and that is what I run on my steel challenge rifle. It is set to 1 lb. It also is crisp and clean with just the "right" amount of take-up and over-travel.
This all is not surprising considering Tony's background: Gunsmith and trigger expert for the Army Marksmanship Team. He was the first civilian to be placed in their hall of fame before he left and started his custom Ruger 10/22 clone company. I know this sounds like an add but I have tried and used his products and have been very impressed with them. In addition, his advice regarding accuracy dovetails nicely with the advice that Greg has given. If accuracy is your goal, he recommend the longest, heaviest, unthreaded barrel he makes from the Walther rifled blanks.
@dddoo7 Haha, no I didn't run it in the drill press. I would have to have super powers to shut it off fast enough. It's tempting but way too fast a spindle speed. The correct way in mill is to stay centered over the hole and put a center in the mill spindle and use a tap wrench with a center hole in the handle to align the tap to the drilled hole. I would switch the mill to neutral and come down with the quill until the tip of the center was in the tap handle then put a little downward pressure on the tap and start the tap. Get a couple of threads going and back up to break the chip then go a couple turns more and you are started straight with the hole. I tapped hundreds of holes this way until we got tap heads for the mills. In my old drill press I drill the hole then without moving anything I put the tap in the chuck and turn it by hand until the tap gets started then loosen the chuck and use the tap handle. Tapping a hole straight by hand can ruin your day and the piece you are working on but I bet you knew that. We used lots of spiral taps and did bottom hole tapping so they had to really had to line up in the hole but with a mill and a DRO it's no problem until you get down to tiny taps then it gets challenging doing it manually. Later the owner of the shop started using tap mills in the CNC machines and for through holes used gun taps that push the chips out the bottom of the holes. Another tip for tapping a hole is spot drilling before you drill the clearance hole. Spot drilling is always a good thing to do so the bit doesn't walk around but drill the spot deep enough so the diameter of the spot is a few thousands larger than the hole so the tap has relief to start easily and the first chip is formed easier and that helps the tap go straight. Both of these stocks had the sling stud rail adapters and with the bipod installed had movement. These are solid :)
@dddoo7 I have a complete set of Forstner's and a couple of Freud carbide tipped ones. They need to be run in a drill press or mill with a hand drill it might want to walk around I use them up to 35mm but only in a press. Either way I will be finding out soon.
It has been quite some time since posting but wanted to let all know the RimX is doing just fine. Last weekend out shooting and happened to pick off a couple flies. One on target and one on target backer.
I think this 22 keeps getting better. I am not shooting it suppressed and have not messed with the tuner as of yet. It has shot the following ammo well Geco, Wolf match target and SK match. It really liked the SK match.
Have a Happy Turkey Day.
@orkan missed that.
On a side note, I don't know if you've heard of the Modern day Sniper podcasts, its made by Caylen Wojcik and Phillip Velayo. A lot of what they're saying reminds me of your class, they going into the mind, and getting to the point where tasks are done unconsciously. Really similar to what you teach even down to a meditation aspect.
Have not posted an update, but have been to range both weeks since last post. Let's just say I have hit a plateau.
2 weeks ago I ran 35 rounds through the 223. Not really much to say, other than the Lapua 223 I finally got shoots very well for bulk ammo. Almost as good as the Fed GM Sierra Match. But I am still not getting things right. I would have a few good shots here and there, even a couple of decent groups, but I just can't get any consistency. At the end, I tried shifting my hips to the right, and that seemed to really solve the problem of the stock moving away from me on recoil. It seemed to help square up my shoulders and get a better spine/shoulder alignment. But I did not have anyone to observe me, and no way to take a picture of my position, so I don't know if what I did was actually a good thing. But I left feeling like I had potentially figured something out.
I went back last weekend, and it was more or less a disaster. Right off the bat I could not find anything productive with the 223. Nothing I did from the previous session seemed to be giving the same results. I don't know if I had a single good shot the entire 25 rounds I put through it. I would have a few where the reticle was back on target after the shot, but I could see it moving all around between the shot and the return. The reticle POA would be the same location at start and finish, but a bunch of movement in between. I seemed as if I have been able to eliminate the movement of the stock away from me during recoil, but appears that I have created a new issue with movement at the front.
So then I switched back to the 308 for the first time in several weeks. It was simply horrible. Every shot I took had the bipod bouncing off the ground and landing to the left. There did not seem to be movement at my shoulder, just at the front of the gun.
I was using this chamber flag to mark the starting location of the bipod. This is a pic I took before a shot:
And this is a picture after a single shot:
As you can see, it jumped and moved to the left about an inch. I am reasonably confident that I was not getting movement at my shoulder. In fact after a few shots with a big bounce, I tried reaching out with my left hand, picking up the gun and setting the bipod back next to the chamber flag, all while trying to not let anything move at my shoulder/bag area. Doing this would put me very close back on target. So it seems that all the movement was at the front of the gun, and little/none at the rear.
I tried everything I know to correct this. I moved up on my shoulder, down on my shoulder, moved the system up, moved it down, more bipod load, less bipod load. Nothing worked at all. I ran 30 rounds and never got one shot that was even remotely good. In all it was truly one of the most frustrating days I have ever spent at the range. 3 hours, 55 shots, and I walked out of there feeling like I accomplished exactly zero. In fact, I left there more confused than when I got there.
This shot should be very telling of what was going on. This is 8 or 9 rounds of 308 at 100yds:
I have seen this before, about 2.5" of vertical stringing as a result of the muzzle rising on recoil. This looks exactly like the issue I was having when I was shooting left-handed. So far switching to right-handed has shown me no tangible dividends, I seem to be right back at the exact same place.
I am going to try and go back this weekend, but we have the remnants of a hurricane moving through. That might prevent me from getting there. We will see.
Since your surname isn’t Buffet, any gunsafe you’re likely to be able to afford is a Residential Security Container. The front door is the hardest point of entry. So look for heavier gauge welded steel on the 5 other walls. There will be holes in the back and bottom metal for securing the safe to the floor and a wall behind plus a hole for electric cord to run a heater, lights and perhaps a motion sensing alarm. Once a thief has access to the back, it’s game over. It opens like a sardine can starting with the power cord hole. Many times, the safe is simply tilted onto a dolly and wheeled away to be emptied at leisure. In general then it is best to get a heavier model and to fortify the bolts internally by running them through heavy gauge fender washers.
As far as keeping your guns from rusting, avoiding condensation is of utmost importance. A low wattage heater such as a Golden Rod will normally be far superior to desiccant cans. Understand that the fire rating is primarily based on the water of crystallization contained in the gypsum in the Sheetrock liner of the safe but gypsum also is highly hygroscopic, much more so than walnut so dehumidifiers dry and weaken stocks before they dry out gypsum. Nothing inhibits rust any better than a light film of grease on all metal surfaces.
All RSCs, gunsafes, are primarily useful to concentrate mass and slow down temperature change. ...and secondarily, lock you away from your own guns and important papers. A few minutes on YouTube will show you how to open any of the locking mechanisms nondestructively, so there is never any reason to drill the lock to open one. A thief will not care whether he causes a little damage turning the safe over, so he’ll go for the easy entry through the back. Battery locks are functionally as secure as mechanical combination locks and keyed locks.
I have been quite happy with a Winchester branded 5 foot high model that weighs about 900# empty. Taller models afford more volume for handguns, jewelry, and papers but are usually less efficiently configured for long gun storage.
There are really only a handful of manufacturers that OEM brand for the whole industry. The ID tag inside the door can guide you in comparing apples to apples as all models are built to a common set of standards. The name on the outside is really just a decal so don’t be misled by sales hype.
I've been hesitant to adopt a "mechanical" method of wind call... because it never seems to be blowing from the same way for the entire distance to the target, and my instinctive capabilities tend to get damaged if I ignore it and head to using a "calculator."
I'm quite interested in the various wind-reading doppler devices that are starting to show up.
I started with a "meat probe" type K sensor, but quickly found that the response time was too long. It was allowing the temps to swing by over 30 deg from high to low even though it was being controlled by a PID. The PID is only as good as the information it is being fed. This probe is much more fragile, but responds crazy quick. My temp swing is now only about 4 degrees at 180 or 5-6 degrees at 300.
@tpk936 said in Dot Drill Report Thread:
ddd you inspired me. Stuck at home is getting boring. I only have 35 yards to shoot suppressed 22lr in my yard. I am shooting from back in my garage. Unfortunately I live in a neighborhood on an Acre and a quarter wooded lot but not enough, need another 20 acres. Logs make a good back drop and easy to staple to.
I need to keep this practice up. A little sloppy on a few shots.
Used GECO ammo.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Pretty clean. Looks good.
So I mentioned that I though the Bergara trigger was similar to the old Walker trigger that people sued Remington over.
Internally there's some design changes to the geometry of parts, but it functions pretty much the same as the Walker trigger. And should the pull weight/trigger return spring break, or should debris accumulate in the trigger mechanism this trigger will end up having the same issues as the Walker trigger.
A refresher on what that was, because the safety does not stop trigger movement (it only prevents the sear from falling) with the safety on the trigger can be pulled. If debris accumulates in the right areas (pretty easy to do the Bergara trigger has plenty of ways for debris to enter) or if the spring breaks the trigger will be unable to reset to engage the sear. So if the trigger gets pulled with the safety on, and doesn't reset, when the safety is released the sear will drop and the gun will go off.
Bergaras change in spring design will mostly prevent this from happening if someone improperly adjusts the trigger (something Remington alleged caused the issue) but if the spring breaks, or if dirt prevents the trigger from resetting, the result will be the same.
Pretty simple trigger design though, one adjustment screw, two springs.
I've tried to explain this (imo) design flaw to several people, but unfortunately people get to emotionally attached to the tools they buy and if you say anything bad you're just called a hater.
To me the first thing I would do with a Bergara going forward would be to replace the trigger. At least on their B14 series, their higher end Premier lineup use a TriggerTech Trigger.
@tan_90 just out of curiosity, there has to be some amount of cock on close or else the sear wouldn't engage with the trigger. So when you say no cock on close, does it mean basically coming as close to the sear as possible while maintaining reliability? Would that be around .010" past that point or something?
I seen your comment about the .242 pin fall and could tell without even measuring that my action has way more, I believe around .340. This might be something I have addressed when I can feel how much cock on close affects bolt manipulation. My concern is more of heavy bolt lift caused by the firing pin spring and cocking ramp. The primary extraction camming surfaces to bolt lug camming surface look to be timed perfectly and they are not working against each other what so ever. I wonder how I could lighten up that bolt lift without lightening the firing pin spring, any ideas?
Sun! Finally! Here's a poor cell phone photo of the starting point. Somehow managed to lose the threaded barrel that the forearm screw attaches to the hanger, so one more minor fabrication to be done.
The way I count it, today is the first day of the first shooting week of 2020. That means I'm done with the 2019 shooting year.
Here's my round count (the averages, etc are weekly):
And compared to last year:
So you will note that I shot 33% less rounds this year (and I only count rifle/carbine rounds in this number, not shotgun or pistol). The reason was we dumped everything we had into some more land and I haven't bought one rd of ammo since April. It did motivate me to start reloading :D
Of course, I will have to buy some rimfire, but I haven't shot up that much rimfire, I've restricted rimfire to vermin only, day and night. So I'm reloading for 308 now and the plan is that over the next few months I'll be reloading for 556 and .300WM. Those are the only three centerfire calibers I shoot, so that will cover everything.
So what were the highlights and lowlights in 2019?
Total overall average group sizes across 5 rifles on the RRS tripod were 13/16ths compared to 14.6/16th last year. I shot vastly higher percent of groups and wind practice off the tripod this year. In 2018, I was still using 100% manfrottos thru April 2018. So 2019 was the first year of 100% RRS.
Prone groups last year 12.2/16ths and this year 12.0/16ths ... the main change again, was less groups prone this year and actually I don't consider that to be good. I don't want to loose the prone skill. I can't use prone in the field much around here, but I want to practice it. And in part that's because I don't much like prone. I'd rather shoot of the tripod. So, if I don't like it ... then all the more reason the beat the crap out of myself and MAKE myself shoot more prone. So today, all shots were prone. :D
So net/net, no real change on group size.
As to wind practice (what I call shooting 500-800yds on my land ... as far as I've been able to get, though now I should have a spot I can shoot 1050yds. The percent of 1st rd hits on a given target was 73% overall. With 73% being the day percentage and 76% being the night percentage. Vastly more shots during the day. The shots were all on IPSC(2/3) steel, with some of the targets being the "face" only (the 6x6 piece at the top of the target). And the vast majority were off the tripod. During most of the year, from most of the positions, I can't see the targets prone. Too much grass in the way.
I did build another berm this year and that opened up another stage ... and I hope to build a third berm in 2020.
Most of the wind shots were with the T3 reticle using the wind dots. The wind dots allow adjustments for wind just by thinking what the new MPH of the wind is and holding in MPH. No need to look at ballistic calculator for wind at all.
I've also finally got the Kestrel 5700 AB Elite Link 100% working and I can synch it to the AB app on the phone to back everything up there. I can send the gun data in either direction. This will enable me to synch the gun data across multiple kestrels. I'm using G7 now across the board.
Right now, I'm still shooting up 1500 remaining 175gr SMK FGMM 7.62 load. This is generating a lot of brass !! And I'm reloading the 175gr as well, using the 175SMK, the FC brass (and for my buddy using the M118LR LC brass). Using varget. SDs are sub 10 and the MV is averaging around 2575 for the bolt guns. The GAP-10 with barlein barrel was getting 2611-2617 ... but I sold that and haven't shot the aero precision/ballistic advantage replacement yet.
Still cogitating on whether to load the 155gr to try to mimic the berger 155.5 cartridge. Or maybe just do a long coal 175gr and hope it can beat the 155gr. Right now, the berger 155 beast the socks off the 175gr standard length for danger space, lag time and energy.
I'm still finishing off the Black Hills 77 SMK with the 5.56(18) mk12-ish. I hope I can beat that load. Right now I'm getting 2751 MV, most recent measure. SD 16.4
And I have 370 A191 and 400 barnes 220 for the .300WM. I'll be loading the 220 SMK.
So I'll be loading 3-4 cartridges.
Standard length 175 SMK
Standard length 77 SMK
Standard length 220 SMK
Potentially a long coal 175 SMK.
On fundamentals. A trick showed to me by a member and an accident I had while shooting buddies stock REM700 308(20) together solved trigger issue. Then for most of the year I struggled with diopter setting and parallax removal issues, but as of now, I think I've solved those. So, now finally on to the breathing cycle. Trying to make the trigger break happen at the respiratory pause without forcing it.
Of course "solve" just means, for one layer of the onion. I don't think we ever get done improving fundamentals. But can I ever get consistent down to 0.5 inch ? IDK. I get strings of 3 groups sub 0.5 inch ... but not avg group size over 100s of rds. But my process is keep pounding on the fundamentals. The good news is, I think my analysis seems to be correct as to where the problem lie. So, if I can keep figuring out what to fix, then eventually, I will be able to fix it ... and on and on it goes for ever and the group sizes should be dropping. Well, that's how I measure if issues are being "solved".
So big goals for 2020
Get reloading up for all center fire rifle/carbine cartridges
Get stage set up to allow wind practice out to 1200yds.
For groups, use prone 50% of the time and whenever possible for wind practice.
Let's try setting avg group size 0.6 for prone and 0.75 for tripod for the group size goals.