Any jam what so ever and you restrict the bullet's forward momentum. Basically, as the powder expands in the case, you're leaving the "cap" on longer which results in a much more drastic pressure spike. 30 thousandths jam is a HARD jam. You most often can't jam much harder than that because at some point you'll start shoving the bullet back into the case with the lands.
For instance, when fire forming, I'll often have about 30 thousandths of jam. It's generally not easy to close the bolt.
So ten thousandths jam is definitely going to produce more pressure. Likely not enough to cause major problems, all things being equal. ... but sometimes all things are not equal.
@orkan Can’t absolutely say better, but definitely available at car parts stores in rural Oregon. CLR definitely not. TSA wouldn’t let me fly with liquids, aerosols. So, brake cleaner and synthetic motor oil had to get the job done.
After live fire report...works great! As some may know I have usually run scope, rifle combo as canted rifle, level scope. With this plate and the rest of the adjustability of the XLR stock I can adjust the scope and rifle as level level. The cant and cast off plates allow me to properly shoulder the rifle without inducing cant and position the bore closer to the center of my body. The result is no canted rifle and a much more natural cheek weld.
Here's a pic of the KYL rack at 530yds. Normally these are about 300-400yds. Boy is it challenging in today's wind. I only cleaned it 3 times and I bet I tried at it about 10 times. I could go to 4 hits pretty easy most of the time, but the last one would get missed by a bullet width often. The last one on the rack is about 2.5" in diameter. Awful little out there.
I went at it cold with my 16" .223AI and absolutely smashed it for all shots on one of my 3 times cleaning it.
That condensation ain't just on old scopes. I have to wait for the scope to come up to temp in the summer or the condensation makes it hard to shoot. I'm not surprised at all that it moves the poi...but hadnt tested it myself.
What are your thoughts on using CLR on steel barrels, steel parts including an AR-15 Nickel Boron BCG?
I couldn't say. I have only used it on brakes, suppressors, and barrels. Most of that stuff is either stainless or titanium. I wouldn't let it sit on or in something new unattended for any period of time. Frankly, it's so fast acting that you can scrub with it and then immediately neutralize it if you're unsure.
I despise our gun laws. I can buy as many long guns as I want on the spur of the moment and take them home...but if I buy more than 1 handgun in a 5 day period the FFL is forced to send my name and info to the FBI. It is not illegal...just monitored. I would rather avoid any more monitoring than I already have...so I carefully purchase handguns at least a week apart.
The 223 AI is all i shoot anymore.You will do good with the 50gr vmax.I run the 50 vmax and have been very happy with it.I am also running the 75gr amax and for the bigger critters it gets the job done.Travis did a great job on that rifle.
There's no way muscles can compensate for poor placement of mass. If the crosshairs are not on the target then move the mass until they are. It doesn't matter whether you're shooting a .22LR or a .50 BMG, muscles cannot hold the rifle on target with any consistency.
Maybe this should be in a separate thread, but I'll go ahead and post it here.
With my barrels I've found that stripping out the copper too frequently degrades precision until 10 or 20 rounds have been fired, then my groups tighten back up.
I strip the carbon often, depending on the load as frequently as every 20 rounds, but don't aggressively remove the copper until the groups open up again.
That said, I have a friend who strips the copper after every 10 rounds in his barrel burners and he shoots 1/4" groups.
I'd like to hear what more experienced shooters experience.
I was withing a couple of weeks or ordering the LBG2, but this one looks like it's a great setup. I don't mind that it's a bit longer than the LBG2. I think I am going to give this a try. The price is pretty much the same as the LBG2. Thanx for the hands on review man, very helpful.
@orkan I agree, I have done side by side comparision of DOPE between Strelok and Ballistic AE and there is a slight difference. I'll give Shooter a try, I briefly looked through it last night and it looks pretty good.
What are the odds of nailing a rabbit like that! :joy:
Absolutely silly that he missed twice. Common sense would be to adjust and shoot again...not assuming you pulled it or whatever. AND if you really think you pulled it that horribly, then maybe you should reconsider some more training before hunting again. :neutral_face:
Yes it is you guys have the knowledge and i have some money soon you'll have the money and ill have some of the knowledge.
wondering whats the cost of your TS #5 at 26" barrel going to run me and what would it cost me to have you assemble once i source the rest of the parts.
and what would be the all out cost of the full build if i didn't source anything for the below?
Lone Peak Fuzion and a McMillan A3A with a TS #5 at 26" 6BRX caliber
All in cost of that match gun build is going to be right at $3900. No flutes, no cerakote, no mags, no scope rings.
That's a Lone Peak Fuzion, Benchmark Med Palma (I like this contour on my match guns), barrel install, muzzle threading, McMillan A3 Adjustable, pillar bedding, Atlas rail, Timney trigger, and Hawkins Precision detachable bottom metal.
because it all burnt up in the first 8-10" of barrel.
Actually it all burnt up before it even made it 1" into the barrel. Look at that quickload chart. Up at the top left corner of the graph you can see "all burnt" in green... and the pressure spike tapers off very quickly as a result. (pressure is red line)
With retumbo, you can put about 105gr into a 338LM case, which has it up just above the neck/shoulder junction. You'd be crunching the shit out of it upon seating any appropriate bullet.