@orkan said in McMillan A6:
Why do they need to put that damn butthook on
I randomly came across this picture right after TS customs finished up my build on one!
No butt-hook-DOH! Don't know when it was released, but maybe on the next one. I wish Mcmillan would have had it listed on the website a little more clearly as an option.
The A10 looks like a nice option for the kiddo's too.
I did try off the tripod (RRS), it was digging down and sliding, back mostly, in the mud, similar to the bipod. And it looks like RRS also has claws and spikes, similar to Atlas.
Rear bag or pack does sound like it makes sense in some cases.
Ok, I think I will start by trying a set of claws on one Atlas and I have a commanche bag I can try under the forearm as well.
This week we are going from 4 up to 40 like over the next several days ... so thawing then freezing ... thawing then freezing ... slippery soup versus rock hard ...
Changeable handguard would be nice for those who have both short and long barrels.
Weight savings will be nice if there is really a significant savings. I haven’t thought about pulling out my monopod and plugging the hole to save weight, but that would work.
Might be worth the swap if trigger is still good. Also curious if it is compatible with the old trigger.
This might allow for aftermarket handguards in the future, although it is not really necessary.
I got to try this bi pod out this weekend for the first time. I'm not sure it deserves too bad of a rating as it has a couple of features worth noting. First I mounted it with the legs facing forward and shot from a portable bench with an owl ear bag for the rear rest. It did OK and seemed loose but my portable bench is rickety as heck. Don't ever build one and use folding saw horse legs get the banquet table legs, much better. For some reason I took it off and reversed it where the legs fold back under the stock. Maybe that's the correct way to mount one I always faced them forward. Easier to deploy the legs and just felt better at least on the Ruger 10-22 I had it on. To fold the legs back up I just take my thumb (left hand) and forefinger and squeeze the two buttons simultaneously and apply a little pressure with the palm of the same hand and when it releases fold them back. One handed operation. Of course to deploy the legs the locks don't have to be pressed just flip them forward and they will lock into place. I don't know if Magpul demonstrated this or not I do know they show using the legs folded up as a rest and that's another one of the features worth noting. On something short like the Ruger if they are folded back it gives you a flat rest and something to grab. I threw it up on top of a gate to get a rest and tried it on the shooting bar on my Polaris. It's a lot better than the rounded bottom of a stock, at least for me it is. Anyway, I got this thing dirt cheap and it's the model you have to use a 1/8 allen wrench to tighten the cross bolts that is a bummer. Would have been better for me if it was a lever type attachment.
6.5PRC takes its place beneath the 7LRM, so it would be different enough from the LRM and the 300 Norma to give you something else to play with. ... or you could go for a big 6.5, like a 26 nosler and really spit those 264 bullets out. Really fun for about 600-800rnds. Though I wouldn't call that an "every day shooter" by any stretch.
6.5PRC pretty much wins the day in the practicality department when considering a traditional action.
@kansas said in Groups versus Dots:
Right, I understand the difference in what we are ultimately measuring, precision vs accuracy as you say. I am trying to figure out if we are measuring any different aspect of what WE are doing when shooting groups versus dots. Or if all the aspects of the skills which we contribute to both groups and dots are identical, but we are just measuring the results differently.
All of the aspects of the skills are identical. We measure the results identically as well, depending on the goal.
If doing load development, and confirming the load... a tight cluster of shots does not need to be centered on POA to have value. When doing load development, accuracy and precision are both required.
No matter what the goal, the aspects of the skills, as you put it... are all necessary and are the same. You must perform all fundamentals perfectly to cut tight groups. You must perform all the fundamentals perfectly to center those shots on POA. You are only ever firing one round at a time.
Shooting small groups is easier, because you don't have to move POA or come off the rifle in any way. Separate targets require movement and thus pushes the discipline of one-shot one-target.
This is not something that gets boiled down to a sentence, or any other "specific bounds" created by someone. Explaining something simply doesn't inherently mean in a short amount of space. It simply means to explain successfully in such as way the subject matter can be more easily understood by the person you're explaining it to.
Oversimplification can do just as much harm as over-complication. I shoot groups on dot drills all the time. I shoot dot drills on dots all the time. The dot drill itself does not determine how the drill is to be used. The individual doing the training decides how it's to be used, and as long as their training technique remains true to form and they use the requisite correct method in measuring their results... then it has value.
Truly doesn't matter if you find the reason for it failing or not... because even if you fix it, it'll just be something else that breaks next time.
Rifle brands don't get a reputation like that unless it's earned.
Another thing to think about is the versatility of a 6mm. You can use those same 87's on coyotes with great success, or you can drop down to 55gr noslers and whiz them out at around 4000fps for some real fireworks. Those are full length barrel numbers obviously, but I'd expect some blistering speeds with 55's even out of a short barrel. 3500 to 3700'ish fps would be my guess. In short ranges, they'd be like a lightning strike on coyotes. I wouldn't like them beyond 200yds however ... but to 150 you'd watch the fur fly.
Heck even my little 16" 6BR hit 3200fps with them very easily.
Once I decide on the kind of bullet performance I'm after, and find success with my choice... I don't hop around at all. Unless I don't really care about that rifle's role and its for the sake of science. Additional variables breeds instability, no matter the variable.
I bought a 700 Adl .223 Remington from a pawn shop years back and completely restored it. It had been used pretty hard but no rust just lots of bluing gone and a faded stock. Before I started the restoration I tried shooting it and it was a single shot only, just wouldn't feed at all. I took it to a gunsmith buddy (seems we all have one) and he found the problem in about ten seconds. The .222 stamp on the barrel was x'd out and re stamped .223. I never noticed it but a new follower fixed it right away. My old friend that had a full time bluing shop did a real fine bead blast on the barrel and receiver and hot blued it and re coated the trigger guard and butt plate just like the original. The stock got a full makeover with an oil finish, I even sharpened up the checkering with a scraper I made and glass bedded it. Like a fool I traded it, end of story. :( frown
On a side note: There's a hurricane in the gulf, we have been in the 90's with a heat index of 100 most of last week and next Tuesday the high is supposed to be only in the 60's. That will be a shock. Raymondville, man I haven't been out that way in years. My mom and dad lived on the Kleberg when it was part of the King Ranch before I was born and he talked about that area a lot.
@twitch I was able to shoot 2 groups of 2, that were 1/2” groups, but 4” apart lol. That was at 100yds. Other groups were around 3”. Definitely a minute of deer gun. I probably wouldn’t shoot further than 300yds max with this gun if I can get the groups down to 1 1/2 MOA.
I certainly don't blame you for being cautious. That bolt has quite a few parts and replacing them could be impossible. I was wondering if they were similar to a Blaser bolt, might search some forums and find some information. Good luck in your quest.
I need to think about the great points you brought up, so that we can proceed. I thank you for setting me straight regarding what makes sense for these lighter caliber firearms and parameters that need to be considered before proceeding . I'll think about those things and get back to you.
As far as the weight issue, I had surgery on my right arm. My strength in that arm is about 30-40 percent of what is was before the injury that required the surgery to correct.
Many thanks for your thoughtful response to my question.
@orkan said in Carlos Hathcock method of sighting in a rifle:
I would also like to add a huge point of contention with the above text.
The concept of showing up each day with a CLEAN bore, is something I disagree with more strongly than I can put into words. If you only need one shot, then it has merit. However... WHAT IF you need more shots?!?!?!
I once absolutely embarrassed a LEO sharpshooter in front of his teamates when we were discussing the truth of the clean rifle. He hit his first shot square, as I did. After that, I trounced him in the extreme. He even had a shot plot and was dialing his rifle in between all of his subsequent shots. However, I was able to maintain 1/3 moa for 20 shots. The sum total of his shots spread across 1.7 MOA.
I have witnessed rifles that would drift from their clean bore impact approximately 1 mil or 3.6" at 100yds during the first 10 rounds of fire. This is typically significantly lower among excellent barrels and rifles built by great smiths. Commonly a half a mil of clean bore shift in those instances. However... once the shift has settled and the bore is fouled in... that rifle will maintain its POI for no fewer than 200 rounds in most quality rifles. That means if you are a combat sniper... you can stay in the fight with 100% true POI for a massive number of shots in comparison to the "you only need one" type of guy. It is also noteworthy that the group size of clean first shots, if overlayed and compared to shots fired from a fouled bore... are typically significantly larger in size than the groups fired by a fouled bore.
This is evidenced by the hundreds of rounds I've displayed in the past year with the various "dirty barrel" experiments conducted here.
Sometimes long held beliefs do not go quietly in the night until facts smack one upside the head. A little guilty of that myself.. no so much anymore..
@orkan said in Thinking of getting a new (butt) stock:
My favorite AR stock:
I don't have the gen2, but the original UBR. Love it for my go fast guns.
My Smith is a dealer for these and has been very impressed with them. Greyboe actually recommends not bedding them, and claims no performance gain will result with bedding over not bedded. David’s been doing some testing with them not bedded and so far is working well.
He’s still not fully convinced bedding isn’t necessary and wants to do more long term testing but so far results are showing promise and he’s becoming less skeptical about.
I will come up with something for the CPS. I had a fabricator make this mount for my Coax when I built my bench. It put the level and angle exactly where I wanted it plus its extremely heavy duty so there is no flex.
Couple of pics
Your favorite 308 bullet.
Slower powder to keep pressure reasonable.
Hodgden lists H4831 with 51 as max load.
Swiss Rifle forums are big on Reloader 17 as being nearly the same as GP11
@orkan Next time I'm out, I'm going to try chiseling some notches in the ground. I noted that when I was shooting, after the recoil process, the rifle was settling about 24 moa to the left of center of target. I'll work on getting centered behind the rifle and see what happens next week. Thanks for the advice.
@orkan Thanks, I think I have the 175 Gr SMK’s dialed in. That last group of Partitions was a test after playing around with some light handloads, (Trailboss- didn’t give me the accuracy I was hoping for, maybe closer in it would do ok).
This is my first target, 175 Gr. Buffalo Bore “Sniper”ammo. I started in the center, (3 shot large group) getting a feel for the new trigger. Then I shot clockwise from upper left and finished tighter in the center. I was sighting in / dialing in the scope as I went along.
I’m getting a better feel for the new trigger and stock, and working on my own consistency. I’m really looking forward to working up loads and shooting out further than 100 yards.
I have been emailing back and forth with a guy at KRG for several months about a chassis for my Howa barelled action, and he told me yesterday that the Howa Bravo will be available by mid-May.
He also told me that the aluminum full-length receiver from the Bravo will be compatible with their Whiskey-3 And X-RAY components. So it looks like they will also have Howa versions of those chassis in the near future as well.
I made my own sling when I got the Bravo Chassis. Bought a pair of GrovTec swivels, an AustriAlpin Cobra tri-glide, some 1 1/4" mil-spec webbing, and its held together by some Chicago screws. It is is not quick adjust, but the Cobra tri-glide holds the webbing once adjusted and doesn't move at all. 1 1/4" webbing spreads the weight nicely and doesn't dig into your shoulders.
The biggest reason I made my own was because every sling I found on the market was either a Wal-Mart style hunting rifle sling, or a positional sling with lots of tabs and adjustments. I wanted something heavier duty than your typical hunting sling, but I didn't want loose tag ends and loops in my sling either. Not sure if it ever would, but I was worried about those loose ends snagging on something.
I may look into that cause I really hate what ended up happening to it. The coating is not actually cerakote, it’s a home brew stuff a local guy came up with years and years ago, pretty neat stuff but I don’t know too much about it. The old man has passed away but his son has kept the business going.
Sounds just like the story about Birdsong coatings I have heard before.
It was birdsong coatings, small world. They are about 10 minutes down the road from my house
I have looked into it pretty good and even spoke to Jafa there. It goes back quite a ways and read some independent lab tests and results that they tested it with Cerakote, Duracoat and a couple others and all others failed in the salt spray some lasted longer then others but they all failed except Birdsong, they pulled it out after over 7k straight hours in the spray tank with no issues what so ever and figured that after that long nothing would.
It has other cool features too like not showing up with IR devices.
It is good stuff no doubt but that firearm would look way better the way it was originally for sure.
Given the PRS timing, I tend to agree that a Palma contour is likely your best compromise. I have, ahem...a few...really heavy, barely tapered target guns and I can assure you that none of them are ever going to be taken anywhere that requires a lot of walking and carrying. My current favorite hunting rifles are in the guns tab and both are too heavy for still hunting let alone stalking. I fondled a friend's Kimber 84???, designation uncertain, this weekend. It is a 6.5 Creedmoor and with a lightweight scope comes in at about 5#. I wouldn't want to bet that follow up shots would be touching the first shot, but it certainly would be a lot easier to carry up the side of a mountain than a 15# rifle that will put 20 rounds in one hole.
I started really poking around at prices, and I found that you can get Lapua 55gr FMJ for only a few cents more than their reloading brass. Does anybody know if this is the same brass as if you were to buy empty reloading brass from Lapua? IIRC Orkan and others have stated that the Lapua brass is about the best for reloading in the 223 game.
Yea I saw this earlier this week, a group on Facebook was talking about the misprint in Cabelas. Several of the guys were bashing cabelas for not honoring the price of $599. Nice looking rifle but I agree with the opinion of others, why spend over 2k on a factory mass produced rifle when a custom can be had for slightly more with better options.
With these sub $1000 actions hitting the market it really should make getting a custom much easier for the masses. This one with Savage small shank barrels would be an easy button for getting a fairly decent rifle.
$375 Bravo Chassis
Just under $2k for a rifle.