@tscustoms thanks for the photo
Well since I'm getting two anyways I might just get one flat curve and one straight just to try out.
If I don't like the straight I can always sell it.
Thanks for the help guys.
@rhyno said in Basic Gear For Beginning Precision Shooters:
Jags for the patches. Parker hale style maybe? I've never really got the hang of them but I've got the other style stuck a few times. I spend the money and get the VFG pellets.
You are right. Jags will be necessary. The proshot rod comes with one jag. Proshot and Dewey both make good brass jags.
I bought some pellets, but don’t really care for them. I wrap a patch around an Old brush.
Took out one of my other 22 Creed setups. This one is setup for thermal.
First shot high right, made an adjustment. Second shot low right, made an adjustment. Shot 3 more in the zone with two in the same hole. I'll call that good!
Sure is nice having the swaro with the camera hooked up. I just swing the screen out and glance at it without having to get off the rifle. Zeroing thermal is usually a real pain in the butt. This made it simple!
@orkan said in McMillan A6:
Why do they need to put that damn butthook on
I randomly came across this picture right after TS customs finished up my build on one!
No butt-hook-DOH! Don't know when it was released, but maybe on the next one. I wish Mcmillan would have had it listed on the website a little more clearly as an option.
The A10 looks like a nice option for the kiddo's too.
I did try off the tripod (RRS), it was digging down and sliding, back mostly, in the mud, similar to the bipod. And it looks like RRS also has claws and spikes, similar to Atlas.
Rear bag or pack does sound like it makes sense in some cases.
Ok, I think I will start by trying a set of claws on one Atlas and I have a commanche bag I can try under the forearm as well.
This week we are going from 4 up to 40 like over the next several days ... so thawing then freezing ... thawing then freezing ... slippery soup versus rock hard ...
I really like it.
No zero shift from stock to chassis, excellent cheek weld, rode rear bag really well. The grip is real comfortable and the stock has a thumb shelf machined in.
Action/barrel sits perfectly centered; I added a magpul m-lok for the Atlas.
Recoil felt more linear than the stock it was in.
I shot it with 2 different mags, a .308 AICS (used like a Bob sled for single shot) and a .223 Accurate mag (AICS). These required a slight mod to fit the Howa. Not sure if required for the other footprints.
The MDT .223 mags are BO, these should fit without modification.
I got to try this bi pod out this weekend for the first time. I'm not sure it deserves too bad of a rating as it has a couple of features worth noting. First I mounted it with the legs facing forward and shot from a portable bench with an owl ear bag for the rear rest. It did OK and seemed loose but my portable bench is rickety as heck. Don't ever build one and use folding saw horse legs get the banquet table legs, much better. For some reason I took it off and reversed it where the legs fold back under the stock. Maybe that's the correct way to mount one I always faced them forward. Easier to deploy the legs and just felt better at least on the Ruger 10-22 I had it on. To fold the legs back up I just take my thumb (left hand) and forefinger and squeeze the two buttons simultaneously and apply a little pressure with the palm of the same hand and when it releases fold them back. One handed operation. Of course to deploy the legs the locks don't have to be pressed just flip them forward and they will lock into place. I don't know if Magpul demonstrated this or not I do know they show using the legs folded up as a rest and that's another one of the features worth noting. On something short like the Ruger if they are folded back it gives you a flat rest and something to grab. I threw it up on top of a gate to get a rest and tried it on the shooting bar on my Polaris. It's a lot better than the rounded bottom of a stock, at least for me it is. Anyway, I got this thing dirt cheap and it's the model you have to use a 1/8 allen wrench to tighten the cross bolts that is a bummer. Would have been better for me if it was a lever type attachment.
6.5PRC takes its place beneath the 7LRM, so it would be different enough from the LRM and the 300 Norma to give you something else to play with. ... or you could go for a big 6.5, like a 26 nosler and really spit those 264 bullets out. Really fun for about 600-800rnds. Though I wouldn't call that an "every day shooter" by any stretch.
6.5PRC pretty much wins the day in the practicality department when considering a traditional action.
Interesting read with a lot of good information. Just happen to see an article that Barett is producing the MRAD in 300 PRC for military contracts.
Greg the following is why you are my go to guy when needing information on calibers and when adding to my DT platform.
"I'll be getting a barrel chambered up in 300 PRC just so I can do the testing myself"
@kansas said in Groups versus Dots:
Right, I understand the difference in what we are ultimately measuring, precision vs accuracy as you say. I am trying to figure out if we are measuring any different aspect of what WE are doing when shooting groups versus dots. Or if all the aspects of the skills which we contribute to both groups and dots are identical, but we are just measuring the results differently.
All of the aspects of the skills are identical. We measure the results identically as well, depending on the goal.
If doing load development, and confirming the load... a tight cluster of shots does not need to be centered on POA to have value. When doing load development, accuracy and precision are both required.
No matter what the goal, the aspects of the skills, as you put it... are all necessary and are the same. You must perform all fundamentals perfectly to cut tight groups. You must perform all the fundamentals perfectly to center those shots on POA. You are only ever firing one round at a time.
Shooting small groups is easier, because you don't have to move POA or come off the rifle in any way. Separate targets require movement and thus pushes the discipline of one-shot one-target.
This is not something that gets boiled down to a sentence, or any other "specific bounds" created by someone. Explaining something simply doesn't inherently mean in a short amount of space. It simply means to explain successfully in such as way the subject matter can be more easily understood by the person you're explaining it to.
Oversimplification can do just as much harm as over-complication. I shoot groups on dot drills all the time. I shoot dot drills on dots all the time. The dot drill itself does not determine how the drill is to be used. The individual doing the training decides how it's to be used, and as long as their training technique remains true to form and they use the requisite correct method in measuring their results... then it has value.
Truly doesn't matter if you find the reason for it failing or not... because even if you fix it, it'll just be something else that breaks next time.
Rifle brands don't get a reputation like that unless it's earned.
Another thing to think about is the versatility of a 6mm. You can use those same 87's on coyotes with great success, or you can drop down to 55gr noslers and whiz them out at around 4000fps for some real fireworks. Those are full length barrel numbers obviously, but I'd expect some blistering speeds with 55's even out of a short barrel. 3500 to 3700'ish fps would be my guess. In short ranges, they'd be like a lightning strike on coyotes. I wouldn't like them beyond 200yds however ... but to 150 you'd watch the fur fly.
Heck even my little 16" 6BR hit 3200fps with them very easily.
Once I decide on the kind of bullet performance I'm after, and find success with my choice... I don't hop around at all. Unless I don't really care about that rifle's role and its for the sake of science. Additional variables breeds instability, no matter the variable.
Ok, I had a chance to do some more work with the 7LRM.
Before I get into the nittty gritty I just need to restate that Travis is a genius. This rifle shoots like a laser beam. If I do my part the rifle will put 180 VLD's into a group under a quarter inch with ease.
To work on this concentricity issue I took 30 pieces of brass, left ten of them unturned, turned ten of them down to .015 and the last ten down to .0145.
The .015 gives me about 50% of the neck turned and the .0145 gives me about 90% of the neck turned. I'm unwilling to go much further than this due to brass life concerns.
Loaded them all with the same 70.5gr H1000/180VLD load and shot them for groups. (While its unrelated, I got the best result with the unturned brass. I suspect I'm the limiting factor here because the .0145 groups were the next best.)
Took them home and checked them for concentricity. Out of the chamber the unturned brass gives me the best result, about 1.5 thou eccentric. The two neck turned batches give me about 2 thou eccentricity. (again not sure why this is the case, it seems counter-intuitive to me)
After sizing, I had introduced runout up to the 2.5 to 3 thou range. This leads me to suspect the die itself being the culprit because of the 30 pieces I never was able to get a piece of brass to have less than 2.5 thou TIR.
The only other thing I could see it being at this point is a matter of me oversizing, because the brass comes out of the chamber around .319-.320, gets sized down by the die .309 and then takes the bullet about .311. However it seems to me that random chance would give me at least a single piece of brass in that 0-1 thou runout range were this the case.
As always, I'd appreciate some input and guidance. Unless anyone can think of something else to try I think I'm going to give Whidden a call tomorrow and see what he has to say about getting the die checked and replaced.
I bought a 700 Adl .223 Remington from a pawn shop years back and completely restored it. It had been used pretty hard but no rust just lots of bluing gone and a faded stock. Before I started the restoration I tried shooting it and it was a single shot only, just wouldn't feed at all. I took it to a gunsmith buddy (seems we all have one) and he found the problem in about ten seconds. The .222 stamp on the barrel was x'd out and re stamped .223. I never noticed it but a new follower fixed it right away. My old friend that had a full time bluing shop did a real fine bead blast on the barrel and receiver and hot blued it and re coated the trigger guard and butt plate just like the original. The stock got a full makeover with an oil finish, I even sharpened up the checkering with a scraper I made and glass bedded it. Like a fool I traded it, end of story. :( frown
On a side note: There's a hurricane in the gulf, we have been in the 90's with a heat index of 100 most of last week and next Tuesday the high is supposed to be only in the 60's. That will be a shock. Raymondville, man I haven't been out that way in years. My mom and dad lived on the Kleberg when it was part of the King Ranch before I was born and he talked about that area a lot.
@twitch I was able to shoot 2 groups of 2, that were 1/2” groups, but 4” apart lol. That was at 100yds. Other groups were around 3”. Definitely a minute of deer gun. I probably wouldn’t shoot further than 300yds max with this gun if I can get the groups down to 1 1/2 MOA.
I need to think about the great points you brought up, so that we can proceed. I thank you for setting me straight regarding what makes sense for these lighter caliber firearms and parameters that need to be considered before proceeding . I'll think about those things and get back to you.
As far as the weight issue, I had surgery on my right arm. My strength in that arm is about 30-40 percent of what is was before the injury that required the surgery to correct.
Many thanks for your thoughtful response to my question.
Was just out shooting pdogs. End of the town was 450yds away, and you could really tell the difference between shooter and AB on those 300yd+ pdogs. A tenth of a mil off equals a miss. When bouncing back and forth between AB and Shooter, it was clear which one would give you more hits if you just went by the numbers shown and didn't apply your own "correction."
@orkan said in DT Bolt Knobs?:
@martino1 I find the factory knob to be of the correct size, and of the correct location. I've not had a need of an aftermarket knob on the newer chassis. The original tear drop design wasn't nearly as good as the current round knob.
Good enough for me, Thanks
@orkan I have some Barts 68gr flatbase I shoot with a 14 twist. That gun makes little holes. I would be interested to see what they did in that 7.75 twist. so when re-barrel time comes I have some options.
825rnds since last cleaned. I always load up about 10-15 rounds and go test fire them before I dedicate a load session. If there's anything going haywire with the brass or components... or the there's a massive shift in load... I can catch it before expending a ton of time and components.
Two 5-shot groups and two singles. Yup, everything's working great... so it's off to sit in front of the Prometheus for a while. At an average load rate of 10rnds every 2 minutes... this won't take long to dump 34gr of H4350 and cap them off with 105's.
@orkan said in Carlos Hathcock method of sighting in a rifle:
I would also like to add a huge point of contention with the above text.
The concept of showing up each day with a CLEAN bore, is something I disagree with more strongly than I can put into words. If you only need one shot, then it has merit. However... WHAT IF you need more shots?!?!?!
I once absolutely embarrassed a LEO sharpshooter in front of his teamates when we were discussing the truth of the clean rifle. He hit his first shot square, as I did. After that, I trounced him in the extreme. He even had a shot plot and was dialing his rifle in between all of his subsequent shots. However, I was able to maintain 1/3 moa for 20 shots. The sum total of his shots spread across 1.7 MOA.
I have witnessed rifles that would drift from their clean bore impact approximately 1 mil or 3.6" at 100yds during the first 10 rounds of fire. This is typically significantly lower among excellent barrels and rifles built by great smiths. Commonly a half a mil of clean bore shift in those instances. However... once the shift has settled and the bore is fouled in... that rifle will maintain its POI for no fewer than 200 rounds in most quality rifles. That means if you are a combat sniper... you can stay in the fight with 100% true POI for a massive number of shots in comparison to the "you only need one" type of guy. It is also noteworthy that the group size of clean first shots, if overlayed and compared to shots fired from a fouled bore... are typically significantly larger in size than the groups fired by a fouled bore.
This is evidenced by the hundreds of rounds I've displayed in the past year with the various "dirty barrel" experiments conducted here.
Sometimes long held beliefs do not go quietly in the night until facts smack one upside the head. A little guilty of that myself.. no so much anymore..
@orkan said in Thinking of getting a new (butt) stock:
My favorite AR stock:
I don't have the gen2, but the original UBR. Love it for my go fast guns.
As a general rule you want SAAMI minimum chamber. All brass will be slightly (to grossly) smaller than a minimum chamber when virgin. The less you work your brass, the better it performs. Sometimes you need to set the shoulders back a couple .000s so your bolt closes without losing NPA, I shoot mostly offhand so a slight crush fit Works my brass as little as possible. I’m just killing paper or steel so maximum pressure loads are not often needed. I don’t crimp so I get crazy numbers of reloads from my brass. I’ve been shooting the same 1 case in my 32-40 Ballard for almost 8,000 firings in the last three years.
If i was building another custom rifle it would be with a custom action.I have 2 defiance machine actions and both of them had to go back to defiance to get them working like they should have from the start.When travis built me a rifle with a lone peak fusion ti action, it was good to go from the beginning.I agree with orkan on the lone peak actions.
My Smith is a dealer for these and has been very impressed with them. Greyboe actually recommends not bedding them, and claims no performance gain will result with bedding over not bedded. David’s been doing some testing with them not bedded and so far is working well.
He’s still not fully convinced bedding isn’t necessary and wants to do more long term testing but so far results are showing promise and he’s becoming less skeptical about.
I got the shipping notice today for the parts that are supposed to assist with partial tension-ing of the tilt, instead of all(locked) or nothing (floppy jalopy).
I know it was mentioned in the Magpul thread, but I didn't want to derail that one any further.